Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Nullarbor SA, Head of Bight, Nullarbor Roadhouse SA

Nullarbor Roadhouse SA April 8, 2015
The freight trains into Ceduna come in all night, we know, we could hear them rumbling by. Just as we left this morning, the road comes up to a railway crossing and there was another train, so as we had to stop, we snapped it as it trundled across with its two engines and 56 carriages of gypsum.
Gypsum train. Ceduna SA

Gypsum train. Ceduna SA

Gypsum train. Ceduna SA
After it passed we started out proper on the journey from Ceduna and across to ‘The Nullarbor’. Well there was a sign that declared it was, so it must be. It’s is certainly flat enough and barren enough, almost like being in the outback proper. Had to laugh though, there was another sign about 200k out from Ceduna, in the middle of nothing, exhorting us to take advantage of the Scaffolding Services that they have in the aforementioned town. 'Did you bring the scaffolding and planks, dear?' i asked.  

We started hearing chat on the 2-way radio and so were not surprised when we came up behind a very wide load travelling at about 75kph. It turned out to be not one, but two very wide loads of 5.5 metres width, two halves of a house or shed or something. We were behind a big old bus pulling a 4x4 and there was a camper-trailer behind us. The chat suggested that the lead escort was starting the process of stopping and moving oncoming traffic off the road. The trucks are easy as they all have radios and all know the score. Some vans and 4x4s are OK with radios but the lead escort needed the following two police escorts to get the rest of the traffic to actually take notice of all the flashing lights and get out of the way.

When the lead man said it was clear for as far as he could see, the big wide low-loaders moved right across to the right hand side. Now we could hear the tail-end escort calling us through on the left and some of us acknowledging, but this old bus, obviously without a radio just sat there blocking the road. I sure as hell wasn't going to try overtaking it and then getting back across to overtake the trucks.  Finally the camper behind us just whipped out and started overtaking me and the bus, right at the same time the bus finally got the message and started accelerating - well ambling forward a bit faster at least. I closed my eyes and held my breath as the camper chopped right back in front of the bus just missing it and the truck. Looney tunes. When it was clear, we called them and advised that we were coming past, which they acknowledged and we made it safely to the front of the convoy.

Later on as we neared the dot on the map marked ‘Nullarbor Roadhouse’ we looked for the turn-off to the left instead, down to the first of the attractions, the “Head of Bight’. This is where the whales all come to frolic in the sun after being down in the antarctic for summer. Sadly no whales as it’s a bit early for them, but plenty of spectacular scenery, easily accessibly from the great boardwalk they have built. And all for $5 a head. Bargain.

Head of Bight SA
Head of Bight SA
Judy looking as stunning as the scenery. Head of Bight SA
Head of Bight SA
Head of Bight SA
Croc tracks! Head of Bight SA
Head of Bight SA
Head of Bight SA
After a good look around we wound up at the roadhouse and booked ourselves into the otherwise deserted caravan gravelled area with the odd power pole. No water. No worries, who’s silly enough to cross the nullarbor without all their tanks full.

Nullarbor Roadhouse SA

We pigged out in the restaurant on a really nice hamburger and passable coffee ($6 a cup!) before checking out the a) a hole of the Nullarbor golf links and b) the old bullock waggon and c)  oh, there is no ‘c’! 

Hole 5, Dingo's Den. Nullarbor Roadhouse SA
Hole 5, Dingo's Den. Nullarbor Roadhouse SA
Bullock waggon. Nullarbor Roadhouse SA
The old and the new. Nullarbor Roadhouse SA

Judy decided to cook all our vegetables before we hit the WA border tomorrow, where we have to hand everything fresh fruit and veg-wise into the quarantine. The wind picked up again and is quite cold so we hid in the van and played on the pewters and read books.


I’ve checked outside. It’s now 530pm SA time but only 4pm WA time, so there may well be more than the six happy campers, that are here now, by nightfall

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