Cunnamulla Qld July 9th 2024

Woke up to bright sunshine and a fast clearing caravan park. We didn’t join in the exodus immediately, choosing to take our time before heading out into the fray.

As it turned out, we had a great run across from Bourke to Cunnamulla, only thing of note was the 10,000 caravans going in each direction. The road was really good for a long way and then turned a bit rough before we hit the Queensland border.

Found our van park easily enough and it turns out to be very pleasant. Clean, quiet, dry!

Cunnamulla is everything that Bourke should be: alive, clean, catering for the tourist. Welcoming even. They have spend the town’s wealth on the newest facility: a hot springs centre right in town on the banks of the Warrego. We went and checked it out, and checked ourselves in straight away for tomorrow, not going to lets this one slip by!

Warrego River. Cunnamulla Qld

Later in the afternoon I took myself off to do the Riverside Walk, from the visitors centre, along the river, over the bridge and a look around the one-time Police paddock. The Police paddock is where the wallopers used to graze their horses and keep any livestock that they had rounded up that may have had their ownership in dispute. The area is referred to as a Black Soil River flat, and is scrubby at best. 

Riverwalk. Cunnamulla Qld

Police Paddock Cunnamulla Qld

There are signs to suggest there are kangaroos and emu, and a plethora of birds. I saw none of the above, just the flat scrub. Except for two things: the Lookout, and a dry creek crossing.

"Lookout". Riverwalk Cunnamulla Qld

The lookout may well have been a cattle loading ramp in past times, but then nothing has to be very high out here to be nominated as a "Lookout". Don't think I'm going back out there ar sunset to takes snaps, probably get eaten by a snake. The dry creek bed was anything but! It looks to have had a timber and chain walkway across it, but the bit in the middle is missing and that black soil is like 'gloop'. Up to your ankles in a flash and sticks to you boots like you-know-what sticks to a blanket

Creek bed crossing. Riverwalk Cunnamulla Qld

Oh, there was another highlight... an ant nest. Meat ants for the curious.

Ant Nest, Cunnamulla Qld

Day two and time to take a dip at the hot springs centre. This is a great setup with 6 or so pools of various temperatures, five outside and one inside in a setup that reminded me of Bath, where the Romans used to take the waters, except without the columns or semi clad nymphs pouring incense and myrrh over our sculpted bronze bodies. 

We tested all the waters except the hot one which is well over 42°, just like Lightning Ridge. They also have a "quiet room" where one can relax on a bed and stare out across the river while having a chi-oxy ankle wobbling treatment. There's this thing upon which one puts ones ankles while lying on the bed. One takes the controller and it starts its wobbling motion back and forth at various speeds.  Back outside you take the plunge in your near boiling water of choice and soak the aches and pains away. You can stay as long as you want, come and go as many times on your all day ticket. I say well-done to Cunnamulla, I reckon its a winner.

Judy undergoing the Chi-Oxy angle treatment. Hot Springs. Cunnamulla Qld

And then a dip in one of the pools, about 37°. Hot Springs. Cunnamulla Qld

Hot Springs. Cunnamulla Qld

We rounded the day out around the caravan park camp fire listening to a bush poet, who, once he got going, was very entertaining. Apart from some Banjo and co, he recited a few of his own award winning poems, and told a few tales as well. Quite entertaining. "Did I tell you about Mrs McGinty's cat...."

Bourke NSW July 8 2024

 Bourke NSW July 8 2024

There are some days when you pull out onto the highway, and you just know, straight away, that its going to be a long day. Today was one of them. To be honest I struggled the entire 220km from Nyngan to Bourke. The road is dead straight and heads North West. The ‘high’ light of the day was reaching 240 metres above see level at Coolabah, before drooping back down to 170. The scenery the entire way until 10k out of Bourke is 3 metre tall mallee scrub past which you can see nothing. Wall to wall. And its raining. Has been all night. The country doesn’t drain because its as flat as a billiard table, the road doesn’t drain, because it has no crown. There are two distinct ruts where the water lays, except for when it pools. You daren’t hit them too fast or you will be pulled to one side or aquaplane of the planet.

And then you reach Bourke, rivalled only in drab and bleakness by others such a Walgett.

We headed for Kidmans Camp, it may or may not be the only caravan park here. You can't book, you have to just get here and take a chance. Cunnamulla or Brewarrina are options if you luck out. We booked into Cunnamulla months ago and called yesterday to confirm. They are turning 20-30 vans away a day... So Kidmans camp it is. Staying overnight only? Centre lane pick any spot, drive through. Yes, well, we cruised up and down and picked a spot with what looked like a promising piece of dirt sticking out of the mud. I abandoned shoes and worked in bare feet, sloshing through the muddy slime like the little mud-gudgeon that I once was.

Us parked up at Kidmans Camp. Bourke NSW

Into town for some fuel and some lunch. Fuel was oK, not even as dear as Canberra. Why is this so?

This....is not the one we used. Bourke NSW

Anyhow, lunch we found back near the van park, at a pub called “Northys”, because its in North Bourke. Had an excellent steak sandwich, so that’s a winner.

Went back down to town and found the crumbiest [sorry] looking bakery west of Dubbo, but again had an excellent lamington and a good cup of coffee. So thats a win as well.

Went to visit the highly vaunted Back-o-Bourke experience / side show. It’s there but may as well not be. Basically one small room with some brochures and take-away tat for the tourist. Cafe: Closed, Exhibition centre: Closed. Gallery: Closed. To be fair, the attendant responded unasked to our private exchange between ourselves, as to the location of the cafe with a terse, “Closed for renovations.” We concluded our short perusal of the available brochures and other ephemera and left. The last time we were here the place was alive: we saw a fantastic bullock driving demonstration and had a nice feed in the cafe. That’s why it has that reputation for being a ‘must-see’.

Back to the van. Hey, it’s stopped raining. Judy acquainted herself with the underside of a doona and I went for a walk in search of the Darling River and the PV Jandra. Found both, in exactly the same place they were 8 years ago. The PV Jandra services are temporarily suspended to to an unforeseen circumstance: they can't find a skipper.

'PV Jandra' marooned on the Darling River, Bourke NSW

Nyngan, NSW July 7th 2024

 Nyngan, NSW July 7th 2024

Transport day today, but unlike 2013 and 2016, we are only going half-way, not straight through to Bourke. North of Parkes we turned off the Newell at Tomingley and bypassed Dubbo, coming out on the Mitchell at Narromine. Road not brilliant, 80kph Roadwork signs most of the way, but no actual works as is mostly normal. No worry, still better than going in and out of Dubbo. So, after a leisurely 270 km, we pulled into the riverside Tourist Van Park in Nyngan. After some lunch we wandered into town to grab some food and fuel.

To be honest, I had forgotten we’d ever been here, it was only when I saw the helicopter-on-a-stick outside the railway station that the penny dropped. 

Helicopter-on-a-stick. Nyngan, NSW

Took some snaps for posterity and headed back to the van. It’s cold and cloudy with rain threatening. As we are right next to the river and it looks as if its already running a banker, we could easily be asked to move on of the threatened deluge arrives.

Bogans on the Bogan. Nyngan, NSW

Squatter and dog. Nyngan NSW

Talking of the caravan park, the place is ’odd’, or at least quirky. There are huge cabins everywhere, with one wall covered in corrugated iron to give it that faux shearing shed look. The van spots are all blacktop / gravel, there are no lines or marks on he ground. You find any spot that appeals and set up camp. As for the conveniences! Here’s one for the books: its a big raised shed, men one end, ladies the other. But the toilets are down the sides and the showers are in a separate area stuck in the end, and except for a door on each stall, are completely open! What a concept, its a wonder they don't have us washing in the river. Probably a good idea except it looks like the Yarra on a good day.

On other odd thing today. All day long a continuous stream of utes and cars and vans coming at us. Much more noticeable once we turned onto the Mitchell Highway and headed west toward Nyngan. Amazing. The stream of traffic hardly ever stopped. As the vehicles were largely P-platers and covered in thick red mud, we decided that they were some of the 60,000 strong crowd who had been out at Birdsville for the annual bash.

Here's a view of Nyngan, and yes I was standing in the middle of the Mitchell Highway..

Been waiting a while to get out onto the main road...

Clear to the East? Yair, naw, dunno...

Clear to the West. Oh hell, better wait for a break in the traffic I reckon.
Nyngan NSW

Parkes, NSW. July 6th 2024

 Parkes, NSW.  July 6th 2024

Just visiting for the day. Started out at 8am when I went to Parkrun out at the North Parkes Sports grounds. At least this year it wasn't a howling gale as well as freezing. Managed a 1 minute PB so it's all good!

We had a good breakfast in town at the "Deja Brew" cafe, which became packed as the locals came into town. Good start to the day. We then went looking for the info place, found it, the one with the Steam Locomotive, but it's not the one anymore.

Old 3075, parked up at Parkes, NSW

They have a new one further up the road, much bigger and includes an Elvis collection, a vintage car museum, a replica of Moat Cottage where Henry Parkes was born, (Birmingham, England) a Henry Parkes Museum and an Antique Machinery collection.

"Elvis" by John Murray. Parkes, NSW

We happily paid the $10 each have a look at the Elvis display and the cars. Most of the Elvis display belongs to Greg Wiggle, who turns out to be an Elvis tragic. Interesting video interview with him and Glen A Baker talking to an Elvis insider, best friend and road manager Joe Esposito. 

Part of the Greg Page, Kings Castle collection. Parkes NSW

Last thing of interest in Parkes was this photo of the Parkes telescope since its conversion to full Super conducting high-intensity LCDs, in the name of power conservation... 

Telescope, Parkes NSW
Image from Parkes Visitors Centre

Those Martians must have thought us so backward not to have done this years ago. fancy using radio waves, how quaint.

Just for fun, and to scratch an itch I've had for a while, we detoured back to Forbes via Bogan Gate. There is evidence to suggest that my great-grandmother came from out this way and was connected with the Nebungalo Homestead, which was out between Parkes and Bogan Gate. 

Now brace yourselves for a run past Bogan Gate.....

Going...

going..

Bogan Gate, NSW

Did you blink? The attraction is that it has a huge grain silo next to the railway line. I apologise to any Bogan Gaterians that may read this, I'm sure it's a delightful place to live and work, just that there's not much of it. Cheers!

Forbes, NSW July 4th 2024

 Forbes, NSW July 4th 2024

Easy trouble free run, except for fairly long stretches of 80Kph roadworks from Cowra to Forbes. Drove straight into what used to be a Big4, now privately owned. Young fellow, Joel, and his wife having a ‘go’. The park is a picture and I hope for them that they do well. Apparently Joel’s parents own the van park just outside Atherton where he grew up, so he’s very familiar with how a van park works.

Judy relaxing into holiday mode. Forbes NSW

One of the reasons I was keen to come to Forbes was to visit the Lachlan Historic Village, which I had heard was finally reopened. How disappointing to find that even though the brand new information place has reopened there using the name Lachlan Historic Village, the village itself is still very much closed and fenced off. The reason cited is that it’s build on top of the 1860’s gold diggings and is particularly unstable and hence dangerous. The lady on the desk seemed to understand my situation after I explained that my great grandmother was born in the Nebungalo Homestead and I was pretty excited at the prospect of being able to see it up close. As a compensation she sat me down and left me watch most of the videos they have which show the old Village, eve through it was past closing time. Thanks!

One of the videos shows the Garrett steam locomotive 6402, which has been marooned at the village since 1979. It was purchased some years back by the Dorrigo Steam Railway and Museum for $50,000. It’s still there, apparently Dorrigo needs lots of funding to get it moved, can't image why, it only weighs 260 tons and is 33 metres long. The nice red paintwork is rust!

Garret Steam locomotive 6402. Forbes NSW

On our second day in Forbes, we visited the Gum Swamp Wetlands, which we always go to. Not that we are birdies, just that it's something to do, and you might get a nice snap of a bird, but then you might not!

Heron, Gum Swamp Wetlands, Forbes, NSW

They have also invented a Sculpture Trail, that starts in the town and goes out along the Lachlan River towards Condobolin. In one place it's called the Lachlan Sculpture Trail, but the signage is a rather awkward "SDL" which stands for Sculpture Down the Lachlan. Anyhow we saw a couple of the sculptures at the Swamp, here's one, a Goanna, which seems like a great piece of work, but is totally lost to the random snapper against the gum trees. Anyhow, it's pretty huge!

Goanna. Sculptures Down the Lachlan, Forbes NSW

Yass, NSW July 3rd 2024

 Yass, NSW July 3rd 2024

Having paid zero attention to the “few things to be fixed” until the last minute, we were actually  ready to leave as scheduled on Friday 5th, but as it turned out we were well and truly ready to get going by Thursday afternoon, so we pulled the front door of the house closed and hit the road.

All the way to Yass - 70 km. But what a great idea, nice leisurely stroll over very familiar road to a very pleasant park for good nights sleep and an clear straight onto the highway the next morning. We’ve pencilled this trick into our future trips. Great idea.

Blast from the past (2010). The Commercial Hotel, closed but intact. Sadly it was being"renovated" when the whole thing burnt to the ground. Yass, NSW

Bright Vic May 24th 2024

Bright, Victoria. May 24 2024

Its been a while since our last trip (seven months) and there has been a major change, in that the Territory has been replaced with a BMW X5. It has had a complete set of new electronics and tow bar installed, and apart from a short trip to Fyshwick to get the van serviced, this is our maiden voyage.

Apart from drama and expense with having to have the install done twice, the van had new brake magnets installed and certainly on the way back from the service it felt like it had no brakes at all. Fortunately they seem to be coming good, perhaps Mr Llloyd was right, they just need bedding in.

Anyhow, we set out from home right after the morning peak hour and had a trouble free run of 450k down to Bright. Naturally we stopped at Holbrook for lunch and took the GPS directed short cut from Albury to Bright via Baranduda, Staghorn Flats, Yakandandah and a heap of other tiny tiny towns. Very pleasant run.

We are camped upon at the ig 4 in Bright, which is heaps convenient to the town, one can literally walk across the swinging bridge into Town in 5 minutes flat.

Our site took a bit of experience and ingenuity to get set up on though, it's up a steep drive and slopes away all over the place. Had to pack up the left wheels to get it level and then pack up the jockey wheel and the legs to get it flat. Couldn't find the tap adaptor as it had fallen off its mount, the gas struts on the bootlid are totally shot and there was a wasps nest in the water inlet... I guess that was the whole point of taking this shakedown run before our big trip in June.

Site sloping away all over he place, but with the use of a few blocks and bricks we got it level enough. Good view though.

Our second day in Bright started with a quick drive out to Myrtleford so I could participate in the Ovens River Trail Parkrun. The things we do to get another Letter, that’s my ‘O’ and I’m pretty happy about that. As we normally do, we went to the designated cafe to have breakfast with the locals, but spice and curry for breakfast? We bailed out before the main mob arrived and went back to the visitor centre for a sensible bacon and egg type breakfast.

We travelled up to Yackandandah for a poke around but were a bit disappointed. The entire street was either cafes or junk shops. I went into one junk shop which was just a disgusting pile of old rubbish jammed into every available space. You could barely walk through. The redneck who was the proprietor thought he must have been sitting on a goldmine judging by the price tags! There was one nice junk shop which was clean and tidy and you could see and touch some interesting goods without having a pair of untrusting beady eyes upon you at all times and you could go through and come out and still feel clean. But, as ever, we were, “just looking”. 

Detour via Beechworth so Judy could grab one of the best vanilla slices in the world from the Beechworth Bakery. Or, maybe they were once but not now, they are pretty bad and the shop is well past its prime as a great place to get a coffee and some delicacy. I've never thought much of Beechworth, and this visit did nothing to improve my opinion that its a bit like Yackandandah, in that it’s a sightseeing destination famous for being a sightseeing destination, with nothing much to see.

From here down to Milawa and we headed straight for Brown Brothers winery, home of one of our favourite drops, King Valley Prosecco. It’s such a nice place, the sun was shining and we thought we may as well stay for lunch. So we grabbed a table on the deck near the lawn and fed our faces with an eclectic array of foods including Barramundi “wings” and little tarts and a bowl of “Salt and vinegar puffed tendon”, whatever they were. Judy just had to wash it down with the aforementioned Prosecco while I stuck to the house lemonade.

Lawns and restaurant at Brown Bros Winery, Milawa Vic

Grazing lunch at Brown Bros Winery, Milawa Vic

From there we went to the local bakery come cheese factory and bought some famous Milawa cheese, which is not too bad. On our way back we slid up to the top of Mt Buffalo for a look see. The view is great and that drop of 1300 odd metres is quite stunning, especially when you walk out over the glass floor. It’s a shame that the chalet still looks to be closed and unloved. One thing I thought though: “where was the coffee van?” The place was crawling with tourists all crying out for some light refreshment. Mind you, I still can't understand how they manage to ride pushbikes all the way up here, or even walk as some obviously do.

View from lookout at Mt Buffalo, Vic

Back in Bright for the afternoon we left the car at the van and walked to the pub where we sat in the sunshine and drank some hideously expensive  King Valley and ate peanuts. You know you’ve chosen well by leaving the car behind at the van park when you stand to to leave...

A stop at Gundagai for lunch saw us in town at the pub. No one would stop at the “the dog” as it’s just awful, and as the original Niagara Cafe has been long gone (it’s reopened somewhere top the street by the new owners) the local pub seemed the logical option. Great feed, and a lovely snap I took of an old photo they have of the old bridge when the river was in full flood.

Old bridge at Gundagai. Image from a photo at the pub.

All in all a very successful first outing, I've a few things to fix and then we’ll be ready for the trek up to Port Douglas.