Wednesday, September 2, 2015

Port Macquarie NSW September 2, 2015

Port Macquarie NSW September 2, 2015

One of the Commandants of the penal settlement was a Captain Innes. He returned to the district as a retired soldier and built a mansion on his grant of 2000 odd acres overlooking a (then) freshwater lake, which was later renamed by the Governor as Innes Lake in his honour. The house was made from local materials including a million odd hand-made bricks and hand split Bush Casuarina roofing shingles. It rivalled any of the grand homes in Sydney at the time, such as Elizabeth Bay house, Vaucluse House and the government houses.

The family lived in it right through to the late 1800s, when it left their ownership. It was already falling into disuse and ruin, but a fire in the early 1900s sealed it's fate . Basically then, it has been a ruin, overrun by the rain forest since that time.

I came here as a10 year old in about 1960 and I can only remember some stones and a lot of jungle. I do remember we travelled up from Laurieton via the Innes Lakes dirt road that appears not to exist now. Anyhow, you can now only get in with a guided tour run by the National Parks people, and then only on a Wednesday. The local community seem to have had a resurgence of interest in the ruins, which have been cleared of vegetation again, boardwalks constructed and some signage erected.

The house itself has a few walls still standing, but most of it has fallen over. One of the problems with the house is that it wasn't built on proper foundations and the bricks were not fired properly. There is a much later wall as part of a wine store added by proper masons from Scotland who made their own bricks.

An Owl Hole. The room held the grain and feed for the horses. The owls were supposed to fly in and eat the rats and mice.
Lake Innes House.Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW

Lake Innes House. Port Macquarie NSW

Lake Innes House. Port Macquarie NSW

Lake Innes House. Port Macquarie NSW

Flemish Bond wall.
Lake Innes House. Port Macquarie NSW

Lake Innes House. Port Macquarie NSW

Lake Innes House. Port Macquarie NSW


After that we went to have some lunch at the rainforest centre, which others had said was excellent and they weren't wrong. We didn't actually 'do' the rainforest, rather we went back over the road to look at another old house 'Roto'. Built in 1890, it is a timber building, which happily has been saved and fully restored by the National Park's people. It looks great from the outside and even though the inside is in excellent condition and beautifully furnished in the dining room, it is really not much more than a walk-through.

Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW

Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW

Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW

Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW

Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW

Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW

Judy. Steps of Roto House. Port Macquarie NSW 

Following on from these, we continued the theme by going to the Historical Museum in town. Apart from the usual bits and pieces, they have a few items from the Innes House, such as the toilet bowl (probably the only one in existence from the time) and Annabelle Innes Widows weeds. They also have a scale model of the House as it may have looked in its heyday.

Model of the Innes Lake House. Museum, Port Macquarie NSW
Finally, we came back via Lighthouse Point, where I snapped a picture of the actual lighthouse and the beach where carries the same name

 Lighthouse Beach NSW
 Lighthouse Beach NSW
Whale watching! Lighthouse Beach NSW

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

North Haven, Camden Haven, Dunbogan, Laurieton NSW September 1, 2015

North Haven, Camden Haven, Dunbogan, Laurieton NSW September 1, 2015

Up early for a trot along the beach: just some swimmers on, lovely in the early morning sun. But when I came back to the van I was looking for my shorts and shirt and jumper! The problem is that there are a heap of mature gum trees in the park, which must be fantastic in summer to get some shade and keep your cool, but in winter they block the sun and it just stays cold.

We kept an eye on the pool and the moment the sun reached it we went and sat over there, and had a swim and did a crossword and had a swim... Next thing you know its 1 o'clock.

After lunch we drove the short distance to North Haven, where I reminisced over the 'good old days' when we came here as kids and swam, and rode in a bathtub through the waves, and fished off the breakwater. No swimming today as its just too cold and hell, there were no waves so I didn't bother looking for the tub.

Grants Beach. North Haven NSW
Grants Beach. North Haven NSW
They have changed the breakwater / training wall somewhat and it now has a fabulous walkway all right along its length. While wandering down the path we came across some dolphins frolicking in the standing waves, caused by the outgoing river and the incoming tide. I also snapped a Pelican as it's about to land.

Camden Haven River. North Haven NSW
A Horizontal waterfall as Googleys Lagoon empties out into the river
Camden Haven River. North Haven NSW
Camden Haven River. North Haven NSW 
Dolphins playing in the standing waves.
Camden Haven River. North Haven NSW 
Camden Haven River. North Haven NSW
Pelican.
Camden Haven River. North Haven NSW
Just as we were leaving, we spied this kookaburra that had been digging in the ground cover for something, but had retreated to this tree while we were there.

Kookaburra.
Camden Haven River. North Haven NSW
From here we drove through Laurieton, across the Camden Haven River to Dunbogan and out to the headland, where I took a snap of the Dunbogan Beach.

Dunbogan Beach, Dunbogan NSW
Coffee was called for and we grabbed some takeaways and some cakes and returned to a sunny spot to sit and watch the river slide by.


Bonny Hills NSW August 31 2015

Bonny Hills NSW August 31, 2015

A pretty horrible run down the coast yesterday thanks to the vast amount of roadworks being undertaken. At least they are out there doing something about it and the end result will be phenomenal. After 2 hours we had covered only 120km, so we took some time out at a big new servo come cafe complex just south of Kempsey.

Made it into Bonny Hills, which is about 20 km south of Port Macquarie. The park is right next to the beach and has a heated pool, so we might survive for  few days.

We found ourselves up in 'Port' as you can't help but call it,where we took some snaps and wondered at the 'progress' which has swallowed up the original coastal penal colony turned port and fishing village and turned it into a Sydney suburb.

A quote from wikipedia to set the scene for Port Macquarie:

In 1821, Port Macquarie was founded as a penal settlement, replacing Newcastle as the destination for convicts who had committed secondary crimes in New South Wales. Newcastle, which had fulfilled this role for the previous two decades, had lost the features required for a place for dumping irredeemable criminals, that being isolation, which was lost as the Hunter Region was opened up to farmers, and large amounts of hard labour, which had diminished as the cedar in the area ran out and the settlement grew in size. Port Macquarie, however, with its thick bush, tough terrain and local aborigines that were keen to return escaping prisoners in return for tobacco and blankets, provided large amounts of both isolation and hard labour to keep the criminals in control. Under its first commandant, Francis Allman, who was fond of flogging, the settlement became a hell, where the convicts had limited liberties, especially in regard to being in possession of letters and writing papers, which could get a convict up to 100 lashes.
The Penal settlement lasted from April 1820 to c. 15/08/1830. The settlement peaked with 1500 convicts by 1825 but by 1828 this had fallen to 530.

One thing they haven't spoiled is thely love old church of St Thomas. Built in 1824 by convict labour, it retains plenty from its origins. It is the 5th oldest church in Australia. At the time, it still came under the auspices of the Dioceses of Calcutta! The most striking feature are the 'box' pews. Originally there were only two at the front: one for the commandant and his mates, the other for the Infantry. The convicts were forced to attend and stood at the back of the church under close guard.

Under the floor of the front box, there is a gravestone marking the final resting place of the second commandant of the settlement, a Captain Rolland. According to the informative commentary, the original floor was packed earth, covered over with brick pavers. The pavers are still there and exposed down the sides of the church. They have a really unique organ, a Walker model, made in 1855, it features three spiked barrels, that have 11 hymn tunes on each. Think about a pianola, you can play it normally or kick back and let it play itself. They were saying that there current organist is 87 or something, so it mighty come in handy.

The church also has a fairly unique tower in that it is square and has a castellated tower and no spire. There is a small bell on the second floor. On the two floors they have lots of old bits and pieces from the early days such as the baptismal font, the lecturn and various bibles and hymn books. Mentioning bibles, they have one inside the church which was donated to them in 1970. It was brought to Australia by a local family in the 1800s. It was printed in 1749.

Finally, I fulfilled a bit of a personal quest: I walked out onto the roof of the tower and took some snaps. One of the old family photos is of the Black family up here in about 1958-60.

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

The barrels inside the 1850's Walker Organ. St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

View from St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

View from St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

View from St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

View from St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW

The Black Family: l/r Paul, Brian, Muriel, Dulcie, Gordon, Pamela (front)
St Thomas' Port Macquarie NSW 1958


Emerald Beach NSW August 30, 2015

Emerald Beach NSW August 30, 2015

A few days late but here's a photo-story from my 7am talk around Emerald Beach

Emerald Beach, NSW. That's South Solitary Island in the distance

Emerald Beach, NSW

These guys have a nice spot to lay about and graze. Emerald Beach, NSW

That next headland is called Look-at-me-headland, I have no idea why.
The Solitary Islands walking path (not just a track, it's a proper path)
Emerald Beach, NSW

Bit of wave action, but as they say, 'you should have been here yesterday!'
Emerald Beach, NSW

Emerald Beach, NSW

Emerald Beach, NSW

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Every holiday-makers beach has one - a Thong Tree
Emerald Beach, NSW