Sunday, May 13, 2012

Katherine, NT


Saturday: Check out the original Katherine River crossing as described in We of the never never, called Knotts Crossing. The river crossing is now just a very low level concrete crossing, currently underwater, so it probably looks a lot like t did then. Went into the museum which is on the old airstrip. Had a good collection of old photos of the town and of Elsey Station, which proved that the ‘exact replica’ they built for the movie in 1969 was rubbish. Went to the local market, which was rubbish as well. Out of town 27k to Cutta Cutta caves, which is a dry limestone cave and reasonably interesting as far as caves go. Highlight was the baby Green Python which was ‘cute’.
Sorry, best I can do, still feel kinda rubbish myself.
Sunday:An early start was required today which isn’t in the least bit difficult as the park comes alive about 6.30am. I think people want to get out and about before it gets too hot. We needed to be in Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine Gorge) for a 4 hr cruise before 9am. One of the nice things about being up early is there are lots of little wallabies about – very cute. The gorge is still very full of water so no swimming or canoeing/kayaking is allowed due to crocs! A full boat load of us headed up the first gorge (there are 13 but the tours only do 2 or 3) which is very beautiful with pandanus lined river banks and sandy beaches where the freshwater crocs are laying their eggs so no exploring there for us thank you. We didn’t actually see any crocs today but there were plenty of signs saying “keep off”. With a $40000 dollar fine we were happy to keep off. We hit some rapids so time to get off this boat and go for a 400 metre walk to the 2nd gorge to pick up the next boat. On the way we past some very descriptive cave paintings in red, white and yellow ochre showing Jawoyn elders (the local aborigines) together with paintings indicating food sources like bush potato and wallaby. The second gorge is the picturesque gorge that you will see in all the brochures. The river meanders through towering cliffs with cabbage palms, melaleucas, pandanus and a variety of trees I didn’t know growing out of anywhere they can get a hold. There were a few cascades still flowing over the clifftops, remaining from the wet. An indication of how high and fast the water flows during the wet, there is numerous trees that lean at a 45 degree angle that are under the water when the river is higher and flowing faster and are now exposed and flourishing with the water level dropped. At the end of this gorge, there is a short walk to the next boat change for a short boat ride into the 3rd gorge. We have been looking forward to this part of the day as it’s where we stop for swim. As all the way up the gorges, the guide has been telling us how many “salties” are still in the river, we are a little concerned exactly where and how we can swim. Well I can tell you that it was a lovely surprise. Off the boat for a short walk up the rocks to a lily pond that that we step over the rocks in the shallows and further up the hill, over more rocks. But what’s that noise. Look up and there is a waterfall cascading about 35 metres down into a large protected rock pool, too high up for crocs. It didn’t take long to shed our clothes - we did have our swimmers on- and pick our way over the rocks and take the plunge. As it was 33 degrees, the pool was very welcome and very refreshing. One of the must do things was get out and stand directly under the waterfall. Just magical. We can cross that off the bucket list. Unfortunately we could only spend 30 min there but it was just wonderful.
We had a leisurely cruise back up the 3 gorges, once again taking in the amazing scenery. The guide was on the look out for “salties” but none were visible today. He said it was too cold!!!!!
Lunch at the visitor’s centre, back to the van park, Brian had a sleep - again – then a swim and Mango daiquiris  - a new discovery – and BBQ dinner. A good day.

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