Judy & Brian Tour Oz: Bathurst Island, Tiwi Island Group.

I can't think why, but for the last three years we have wanted to go to the Tiwi Islands. The past 2 years you could only get there by aeroplane, and at a cost of $500+ per head it just wasn't going to happen.

This year however, 'they' have put the ferry back on and there is an organised tour. We go the impression that it was the only way to be allowed onto the islands, but that proved not necessarily the case as found out later.

None the less, we found ourselves at the wharf at Cullen Bay at the allotted time of 645am o'clock. There was a big enough crowd and no apparent movement from anyone who might appear o be in charge. We waited, and waited. Promptly at 730 a deckie appeared, stood next to the railing with his clipboard and asked the person next to him if they had a name. It's just so casual and of course every thing is done in Darwin time, namely when they are good and ready.

The boat is a biggish catamaran that must hold 100+ and zooms along at 25 knots. Even so, it took 2 hours before we sighted land, and another 1/2 hour before we picked up our mooring in the Aspley Strait that separates the two biggest islands, Melville and Bathurst (don't be fooled, Melville Island is quite large, second only to Tasmania for size). You have to wait for a barge to come out from Wurrumiyanga (shown imaginatively as Bathurst Island Township on some maps). Soon enough we were being deposited on the beach, only to have our bags cursorily examined by the police, whose job it was to stop the illegal importation of alcohol into the island. Its a grog free zone and they would like to keep it that way. One of the Tiwi women on the boat was using the time honoured method of smuggling the grog: buy a Coke buddy, tip out most, keep enough for colour and a bit of fizz and back fill with Bourbon / brand / rum. She was well plastered before we reached the island and was last seen on the barge guzzling down 2" of bourbon before dropping the bottle over the side.

We are met by a tour guide person who ushered us onto a 20 person bus along with an indigenous guide for our tour. We drove up and down the two streets, marvelled at the rubbish lying about and were taken to the museum, where we were given a talk all about the aboriginal culture by our guide. It may just be me but as was the case Inmaluk, I have trouble understanding him as he spoke quite quickly and with a strong accent and after an hour my legs were ready to give out from just standing around. If I thought Darwin time was a bit behind, I had to then get used to Tiwi time. The indigenous peoples really have no need to conform to the concept of time, the way europeans know it. Morning, day, night. That's about all you need. The museum was pretty ok though where the guide related their dreaming story and explained the use of some of their spears and clubs. From there we went for our morning tea (after noon!) where we were introduced to another local guide who introduced us to three women who were painting shells. All really interesting, but the hot damper and proper billy tea was also very welcome.Then all five of them, painted their faces in representing different ceremonial and animal masks and gave us all a smoking ceremony to welcome us and reenergise our spirits. They followed this up with three animal dances: shark, buffalo and crocodile. You need your imagination!

Next stop was the Tiwi Design art centre, where even I was surprised by the vividness, clarity and quality of the artwork, and at reasonable and sensible prices for a pleasant change. We bought a small sandpiper bird carving, created by Mario a local indigenous man, with a chain saw and grinder, but you could have easily bought more, including cotton and silk fabrics with the most amazing screen printed design.

Last stop was the original mission church. The missionaries arrived in 1911 and set about converting the heathen natives to Christianity. The native population seem to have readily embraced the stories and songs of Christianity into their own culture and now they lead this dual life where both beliefs sit easily side by side.

Finally we were back on the beach for the 21/2 hour cruise home, albeit a bit on the rough and choppy side.