Emerald Beach NSW August 30 2015

Emerald Beach NSW August 30 2015

Just a couple of days doing nothing. We are at Emerald beach which is just north from Coffs Harbour, close enough to be half-handy, far enough away to be relaxed.

As relaxed as one can be with mum, dad and the 4 kids across the road going flat out at full volume all day from 630. One of the kids just sits there and squeals all day. They have a pop-top van with the beds folded out each end. They have 5 bicycles, 6 chairs, a play pen, several tables, a BBQ, numerous toys. The whole lot is spread out over two caravan sites. Mum sits out in the road, using it as a table to fold the once clean clothes. Dad is reliving his childhood through his children, which is OK, except he's making more noise than them.

We went out. Naturally, on day 1 we gravitated to Coffs itself and stumbled into the markets, a car show, saw a steam engine, snapped a DC3 and had an ice-cream at Sue's sisters place on the wharf. We wandered around the marina and found some fish, a rusty hulk and a Pirate Ship.

Dad used to build little vans just like this. Coffs Harbour NSW

Just like Reg's. A '61 Corvette. Coffs Harbour NSW

A 1945 model DC3. Coffs Harbour NSW

Down to the sea in ships... just not this one. Coffs Harbour NSW

Pirate ship. Coffs Harbour NSW

We had lunch at the Sailing Club in the Ynot restaurant overlooking the ocean. It's one of our favourite places. Probably has a Facebook page and we should go and kiss it or hug it or lick it or whatever.

me studying the menu at the Ynot restaurant.. Coffs Harbour NSW

View from Ynot Restaurant. Coffs Harbour NSW

Another day, another early morning chorus of raucous kids. I didn't hear them, I went for a walk along one of the beaches and around the headland and through the tiny town. Fortunately, by the time I got back, the kids had found some other kids to run wild with, way down the other end of the park.

We eventually went out again, first to shops to get some scripts filled, and then down the road, south about 20km to a place called Mylestom, out along the Bellinger River toward the mouth. This is a nice quiet little place, one of those towns which is the forgotten cousin of its better known rival across the other side of the river - Urunga.

I was driving and 'winging' it navigation wise. There is the motorway and then there is the old Pacific highway and they are entwined in and out as you go up and down the coast. The instructions from the waitress at the cafe were clear: Urunga's just over the other side of the river. Naturally I drove back along the river, turned left over the bridge and turned left again back along the other side. Even I could tell that this was probably not the way to Urunga, but we kept going just because it was interesting. We could see ahead, a gaggle of cars apparently stopped in the middle of the road and we suspected an accident. As we came up to them, it was obvious that it was a railway crossing and that they were waiting for a train, which duly arrived 10 seconds later. It was the source of the steam and smoke we could see in Coffs yesterday. Talk about timing. 10 seconds later and we would have seen nothing.

A 1940s D59class steam locomotive doing what it does best. Raleigh NSW

Finally we stumbled across Urunga, which of course is still in the middle of the main road called the Pacific Highway. We must have driven through here 20 times over the years and never once stopped to sniff about. Today was different, I was on a mission to find the 'new' boardwalk as mentioned in one of the ubiquitous tourist guides. We could not find it. We drove down along the river. We drove up along the river. We were heading back to the i-place when we saw this huge sign in a deadend carpark advertising the boardwalk, and suggesting that it was 2 minutes drive back the way we had come. We went back, we could not see it, nor any sign to suggest that it was near. We parked 'at the centre of town' as it said in the guide, which also happened to be next to a caravan park and opposite the Ocean View Hotel. Then we saw a path that seemed to be going back up the river. With nothing to lose, we got out and started to follow it. What would you know? After a few turns, we were at the back of the van park and could see in the distance a boardwalk stretching out into the river toward  the headland. Must be at least 500m long.

Boardwalk. Urunga NSW

We walked its length. It's fabulous. Nice easy walk out over the lagoon and along the river rock wall to the heads and Urunga Heads Beach. The tide was out, leaving this one large pool, full of fish feeding on flotsam as it came out from the still emptying lagoon. There is an extension that runs down along the lagoon as well. It's billed as an 'interpretive' boardwalk, whatever that is. Further out along the rock wall, we could easily see large fish flashing silver in the sun as they twisted and turned chasing their dinner. A lovely place an worth a visit and walk.

Lagoon at Boardwalk. Urunga NSW

Boardwalk. Urunga NSW

Lagoon. Boardwalk. Urunga NSW

Fish galore. Boardwalk. Urunga NSW

Boardwalk. Urunga NSW

Am i leaning or is the boardwalk falling into the lagoon? Urunga NSW 

Boardwalk. Urunga NSW

Completely unspoilt sand at the head. Urunga NSW

Mind you the van park, which looks nice enough, is fully exposed to the onshore breeze which was in full song today.

One last thing. We are getting low on fuel and we need to fill up before taking the van out again tomorrow. We knew that there was a big Shell right near our turn-off so we sailed past all the servos in Coffs smug in our knowledge that we could get a fill right near our 'home'.

When we got there, we found that they didn't actually have a diesel pump - can you imagine that? They advised that the closest diesel was at Woolgoolga, a few kms north. Off we went looking for another big servo. Woolgoolga used to be on the main road and it was when  we last rolled through a few years back. We took the turn indicated by the blue sign with the petrol / toilets /  food sign and found a tiny servo. Closed. Further along we found a bigger shopping centre but only one servo, a down-at-heal looking Liberty. But they had diesel and beggars can't be fussy about their fuel, so we filled up and slid out of there back to Emerald Beach to settle down for the evening.

Emerald Beach NSW August 28, 2015

Emerald Beach NSW August 28, 2015

Headed off down south today, staring out on the really good road they call the M1, which is a dual carriageway all the way down to just north of Byron Bay. From Byron Bay down to Ballina there are extensive roadworks which will do away with the tortuous route over and around and up and down the mountains. From Ballina down along the rivers to Grafton is still the old slow trip through all the little towns and over the rivers.

We stopped at Maccas at Grafton, as we seem to have done a few times, for an early lunch and to have a rest, that road is pretty tiring. Then it’s back on the road for the 60km or so down to Emerald Beach which is 20 odd km north of Coffs Harbour. Once south of Grafton the road opens up again into a dual carriageway and is quite a pleasant and smooth run. Last time we came down this way it was wall-to-wall roadworks and so this was a nice change.

We found our park easily enough and it’s right on the beach, well just a strip of bushland between us. It’s a funny beach actually, fairly flat but absolutely no swimming as it’s signposted as being too dangerous. We walked a bit along it, then took the exit to the nearby cafe for a nice coffee and muffin while watching the ocean roll in.

One thing we have here, is yet another heated pool, which is just great. Sat in the sun, failed to complete a cryptic crossword and had a swim or two.

Tweed Heads NSW August 27, 2015

Tweed Heads NSW August 27, 2015

We spent yesterday cruising around the mountains out the back of Tweed Heads / Gold Coast. First we had to go back to Springbrook, to see if the Best-of-all lookout could live up to its name:

Best-of-all lookout 2012. Springbrook Qld

Best-of-all lookout, 2012. Springbrook Qld

Best-of-all lookout, 2015. Springbrook Qld

Best-of-all lookout, 2015. Springbrook Qld

Personally, I didn't think it that great a view, but the busloads of Asian tourists thought it was all pretty special. 'Ow' and 'argh' sound just the same in Japanese. Its a narrow track down and out onto the viewing platform. They came down in single-file led by the tour guide. They marched out onto the platform, give a quick 'ow argh' turn around, grab a selfie-on-a-stick with the view in the background, and march right off again.

We had coffee in the only coffee shop we remembered in the area for miles. It's the oddest place, full of 'art' created by the resident owner and cook. The coffee was fine, just took 20 minutes to arrive; just long enough for one to fully appreciate the intrinsic beauty of the art on display. As it was we were terrorised by the local butcher-bird family who obviously make themselves right at home with the dogs when we're not there. Needless to say, as we turned the corner to come back down the hill we found a brand new coffee shop, which definitely wasn't there last time we were visiting.

This is a steep climb and the road is only just two lanes wide at best. I had to document this part of the road. Keep in mind that we are on top of a mountain and there's nothing between the road and the valley floor, not even a big stand of trees to stop you rolling all the way down

Going...   Road to Springbrook Qld

...going... Springbrook Qld

Damn near gone. Springbrook Qld

You have to come all the way back down to the M1, drive north for a few kms and then turn off again, wending your way through Nerang before heading up to Mt Tambourine. We been here a few times already, so the little village with all its arty-crafty shops and overpriced cafes held no interest. We went straight to Skywalk, where we had an organic steak pie for lunch and the best Anzac biscuit I've had for a while. Skywalk is a series of raised gantries running through the treetops, connected by paths that also take in the creek at ground level. We had a lovely old time taking snaps of trees and ferns and stag horns and rocks and things. Mostly rubbish, but good fun and every time you learn a bit more about the bush around you.

Creepy creeper
Skywalk. Mt Tambourine Qld 

Almost-a-creek
Skywalk. Mt Tambourine Qld

Furry fern with lighting
Skywalk. Mt Tambourine Qld

Epiphytes
Skywalk. Mt Tambourine Qld

Skywalk. Mt Tambourine Qld

Judy on the gantry, gives you an idea just how tall these trees are.
Skywalk. Mt Tambourine Qld

Start of a strangler fig. It will probably last longer than that &^$* post that crept in behind it!
Skywalk. Mt Tambourine Qld

On the way back down, we stopped and grabbed this snap in between the houses which line the road all the way up, most sitting precariously on slender stalks way above the valley.

The Gold Coast meets the ocean. From Mt Tambourine Qld

To top off our day, we went to the Australian Outback Experience (again..). We were keen to go because it was rumoured that the show had finally changed. It was now called the High Country Legends. As you would expect it was loosely, very very loosely, based around our heroes from Warrego Station (its one of the two 'Stations' that make up the theme park) going to the snowy alps to take part in the great muster and horse-ride, in the style of the Man From Snowy River. We were both a little disappointed with the show, it was OK mostly but a bit slow in the middle and it was hard to understand the dialogue, of which there was way too much. But, we had a really nice feed and drinks and were entertained by the skill of the cowboys and girls and the magnificence of the horses and other beasts for over 2 hours, so we enjoyed ourselves. The difference is, that we were happy to go back and see either of the previous shows, but we wouldn't bother with this one again. Maybe they'll change it real quick and we can go back again next year!

Tweed Heads NSW August 22, 2015

Hibiscus. Rainbow Bay Qld

Tweed Heads NSW August 22, 2015

Can't remember what we did this morning - must have been exciting!

We wandered off for lunch some time after 1pm, and naturally enough we gravitated toward a place called D'Bar up on the headland, right behind the Captain Cook memorial which marks the boundary between NSW and Qld. Yes, we've eaten here before and chances are we'll eat here again before we leave. It's just the right place, the right atmosphere and the food is delicious. I could eat here 3 times a day, but our budget and my waistline might not  be up for it!

Duranbah Beach NSW. Tweed River NSW

It's a really gusty overcast day on the beach, not really very pleasant. We had a bit of a walk along Rainbow beach, the 'beachscape' of which seems to have changed dramatically since we were here last year or the year before. For a start, there's this lagoon that's been formed behind the beach - the kids were having a great old time in the safe and warm waters. one surfy had come in from the cold ocean and was re-heating in his own personal spa.

Pelican - snuck this one in from Noosaville to see if anyone is watching

Judy, beach bum.  Rainbow Bay Qld

We drove a little way around the coast trying to get to a beach that wasn't being blown-out by the wind: Greenmount, Coolangatta, Kirra, Bilinga, Tugun.. until we reach Currumbin. The most noticeable feature is a large boulder called Elephant Rock, which looks just like a large rock and bears no resemblance to a Elephant. There are stairs to the top so I scooted up and took some snaps.

Rocks at  Rainbow Bay Qld

 Rainbow Beach Qld

We finally broke the fishing drought for Judy by driving the few kms down from the van park to a boat ramp and jetty on the Tweed River. She had a lovely old time hauling in the bream one after the other, and even a small whiting. I sort of lost count, probably around 15 fish. I had to smile though, there were a few groups of kids with all the gear just-like-dad also fishing like mad and catching nothing. Eventually one of them came and asked if we 'could spare him a hook'. I gave him a few the same as Judy was using, and some prawns. Pretty soon  he was catching fish as well - he'll have to go home and rethink his fishing strategy!

Currumbin beach from Elephant Rock. Currumbin Qld

Mind you, the pelicans were having a field day as the real fishos came in and cleaned their catch at the cleaning sink. The pelicans were coming in from everywhere to pick-up the scraps and going away stuffed to the wingtips.

Hibiscus. Rainbow Bay Qld

Tweed Heads NSW August 21, 2015

Tweed Heads NSW August 21, 2015

Another day, another state. Time to move on again today, and so, in-between showers of rain, we packed up and hit the road. Back out through Eumundi to the Bruce once more, heading south. The rain persisted and made for a more uncomfortable drive than it should be. Somewhat south of Eumundi, just north of Beerburrum we started picking up 2-way radio chat about a truck crash ahead of us and how the road was blocked for 5km or more. As we got closer we understood that only the left lane was getting through but it may as well be completely blocked. Armed with this warning Judy hit the atlas to find us a way round, via Beerburrum and Caboolture, a detour confirmed by the trucks as they too made other arrangements. Just as we came to a halt, the exit appeared and so we along with anyone else with a radio, left the mighty Bruce and headed for the hills. It turns out to be a pleasant drive, and as we like roads less travelled, it suited us fine.

We came back out onto the highway at Caboolture and even though we knew that the road was still blocked up north, you would never know from the amount of traffic. You just have to pick a lane and stay in it: for us that’s not the fast lane nor the lefthand lane but one in the middle. We just kept our heads down until we were down past Brisbane airport when we decided after two hours and 120km that a break would be nice. Taking the service exit we found a huge, and i’m talking massive Shell servo, which also housed a whole range of eateries and a dedicated truckers lounge. Mind you we couldn't find the way in to the car and maybe van parking, so after circling once by driving through all the huge trucks, we abandoned the rig out in the street and walked in.

Back out on the road, we soon came to that marvel of engineering, the Gateway bridge over the Brisbane river.  These silly blighters running over it were not there when we roared over! 

Gateway Bridge, Brisbane Qld
Image : Courier Mail

From here on, it’s a 95km melee of 4, 5, 6 lanes of traffic until well past the Gold Coast. The traffic never lets up and you need to be right on it to survive.

Finally we made it into Tweed Heads and the van park, unscathed. Miracle. And it’s stopped raining!

Tewantin Qld August 18 2015

Tewantin Qld August 18 2015

One trick I have learnt when travelling, is to go to the i-place and get a birdwatching guide. Not that I want to track down birds particularly, but the guides that they supply usually have tracks and trails that lead you all over the countryside, to places to which you wouldn't normally go.

And so it was that we found ourselves at a place out the back of Tewantin called Lake McDonald, starting with the ubiquitous bird hide, so named because the moment you step into them, the birds go and hide.

Just hold the camera still taking snaps until a bird flies past. Lake McDonald. Tewantin Qld

Judy harassing dragon flies. Lake McDonald. Tewantin Qld

They are kinda cute though.  Lake McDonald. Tewantin Qld

Brian being snap-happy. Lake McDonald. Tewantin Qld

From here we were led up to the top of the volcanic plug called Mt Tinbeewah. well not quite top the top, there was still a 250m walk / climb to the actual top. We were passed by some bright young things carry ropes and metal bits and they took the direct route rather than the old farts paved path with hand rails. When we got near the top we came across a group of school kids being given lessons in abseiling, starting with the '24 metre', before moving up to the 'Monster 100'. Good on them. The adults running this told us that it's the last day in a 3 day program where they all go and live in the bush and do all kinds of character building things, ending with jumping off a cliff. They then have a slap-up bush tucker meal and get certificates and things. What a great idea.

Anyhow, we made it to the top and took some snaps before descending back to the carpark.

Judy striding out for the summit. Mt Tinbeewah Qld

Noosa and surround. Mt Tinbeewah Qld

From Mt Tinbeewah we drove around to Cooroy and had a wander around the town before settling on a cafe for lunch. Judy had a bacon-and-egg breakfast and I the leek and bacon soup.

Back on the trail, we were surprised to find that it took us straight past the Noosa Botanical Gardens. (It's like that here, everything is called Noosa this or Noosa that, even though it's miles from Noosa itself. You saw the pictures from Mt Tinbeewah, and we're further west again than that!) The gardens are not mentioned on any of the tourist brochures or by the i-people, but they should be. Situated on the high side of Lake McDonald (did they mention the lake? No, it doesn't exist either) and is a little gem. We had a lovely time wandering about looking at all the palms and ferns and tropical plants we just can't grow at home. They even have a Roman Amphitheatre, interesting, but a bit of an oddity.

Friends, Noosarians and Tourists, lend my your ears! Noosa Botanical Gardens. Lake McDonald Qld

 Noosa Botanical Gardens. Lake McDonald Qld

A fabulous unfurling fern frond.  Noosa Botanical Gardens. Lake McDonald Qld

We followed the trail right around the back of Tewantin in a big circle and ended up back at the van in time for our afternoon swim in the pool.

One of the best value-for-money activities here is the sunset cruise on the Noosa Queen. For $10 you get a boat ride up the river to the edge of Lake Cooroibah, where we get to watch the sunset over the ranges before cruising back down to the Noosa Marina, at Tewantin, of course.

Sunset. Lake Cooroibah, Qld

Sunset after-glow. Lake Cooroibah, Qld

Ripples on the river. Noosa River. Tewantin Qld

And here's a bit of fun to finish. Everyone else and their dog were taking selfies on their telephones and pad things, so why shouldn't I get in on the act with the DSLR? Judy went all shy on me but a nice snap anyhow.

Us on the Noosa Queen. Lake Cooroibah Qld