Got up early and hit the road on our way to Waitomo, some 250km away. Why? To visit the world famous Waitomo glow-worm cave of course. Judy came here 40 something years ago, and didn't recognise the place from the outside. Apparently the last iteration of the cave buildings burnt down a few years ago, to be replaced with the huge timber / canvas tent-like structure. It's odd, its like being inside but you feel like you're still definitely outside.
We had a coffee while waiting for the next all-comers tour, which leaves every 30 minutes. Tours themselves seem to leave every 5 minutes as there is a constant stream of buses turning up as well.
Inside the cave - it looks a lot like many other wet limestone caves we've been into, except in this one the rock is a lot whiter and the floor is even and paved, as it had to be for the hordes that come through here. You stop at a few places as the guide points out the usual stalactites and mites, which in this cave are dripping the entire time. You also get the torch on the odd elephant, dogs head, head of dreadlocks etc, and of course, there is the inevitable cathedral. Out go the lights and we are encouraged to sing a Maori song along with our guide. As cathedrals go, this one is one of the best cave versions we've been in and the acoustics are remarkable, in that there is absolutely no echo due to the damp limestone. From her we moved down into the smaller end cave and with the lights out we get to see real glow-worms, which have to be up there with the weirdest of creatures.
A glow worm isn't a worm at all. It's the 3cm long larvae of an insect, a fly in this case. They stick themselves on the roofs of damp caves and drape sticky strands down as a snare. Their tails light up due to bioluminescence and the light attracts the flying insects from the damp floor below., to be trapped and eaten. Pretty interesting and a pretty show.
They keep talking about a boat ride to take us out, and they aren't kidding, you follow steps down to the underground river that formed the cave, and get into a boat. Now down here it is completely dark and we are asked to be quiet to help preserve the atmosphere. What you see on the roof of the caverns on the way out is truly spectacular, thousands of glowworms light up the place like the night sky.
Interestingly, the current exit via the river was the original entry. The caves were first explored by a Maori chief, Tane Tinorau and an english surveyor, Fred Mace. The first tourists were taken down the cave by Tane Tinorau and his wife Huti, in 1889. After a very long time under government ownership, the whole site was returned to the descendants of Tane Tinorau and Huti. Many of those descendants now work at the caves.
Sadly, the rule is absolutely no photography of any sort, so if you ever get he chance, come and see it for yourself!
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