Judy & Brian Tour Oz: March 2016

I am told by avid readers of our blog that I failed to finish the New Zealand Blog. Yikes, they are right of course and now I will try and make amends.

Now where were we? Oh, yes, waiting at the station in Greymouth for the train bound for Christchurch; over the alps and on the other side of the island. There's not much to say about the trip over the mountain, except that it poured rain the entire way and we saw zippo, however there was a travelogue going and from the snippets we could actually hear above the noise of the train it sounded like the area and Arthurs Pass has an interesting history. Putting a road through here would be no mean feat, let alone a railway line.

We cruised across the Canterbury Plains and into Christchurch where we grabbed a share-a-cab-min-bus the few short km's to our motel.

The next day were had about six hours to fill-in before we were due at the airport so we went and jumped on a big red bus tour of the city. This was really interesting because they took us to all around the remains of the city and gave us a running commentary on how the planning and rebuilding was processing. There's not a lot left, most buildings still standing are badly damaged, even the ones that don't look too bad we are told have major foundation issues. You would look at a building and think that it was OK, and then you would see the crack running right across it from side to side and wonder how it was still standing. Being ingenious, they have propped quite a few buildings up with stacks of shipping containers until they are ready to be restored or whatever. Now that's clever.

And then there were the two cathedrals: one catholic and the other anglican. They story that they told us was that the lady minister in charge of the anglican cathedral was all for bulldozing this 1864 church as soon as possible and rebuilding a modern glass and concrete edifice in its stead because to restore it was just too much expense for the church. The people of Christchurch prevailed and the 'dozers are still waiting for the flag to drop, but I felt that it's only a matter of time before the remainder of the church is demolished.

The Catholic church, which also appeared to be quite badly damaged is also waiting a decision on its fate, however in this case, 'Rome' has said that they could do whatever they choose, money was no object, but the choice between restore or start again is never going to be as easy as that. The real problem is of course that brick or stone block buildings are the most unsuitable, being prone to earthquake damage, they literally just fall apart, so to spend $200 million restoring such a building is perhaps not the most clever choice.

Bits and pieces of the city are alive again but it's still a huge task and will take many years to complete. Just west of the city is the 'posh' suburb of Fendalton and the magnificent gardens of 'Mona Vale', a 19th century homestead / mansion. You start at the gatehouse, badly damaged and walk along the Avon river right through to the other end admiring the water features and gardens and keeping a look-out for the bus which was to pick us up. Sadly we missed the homestead, bathhouse and fernery; all closed due to damage.

From here we travelled right across to the coast, to Sumner Beach. On the way we were regaled with tales of the damage and disaster. The city centre is so obvious and the whole world knows about it, but there are even greater tales of woe: whole suburbs have to be abandoned because the alluvial plain that they were built on has 'liquified' and the houses have sunk. We really felt for the ordinary people, most will be not only homeless and unemployed but financially ruined as well. Over at the beach itself the road runs along the base of a ridge-line, the edge of the road is a two-story row of shipping containers. It's only when it's pointed out and you catch the odd glimpse of all the houses on the side of the ridge that you realise that they too are all empty and will have to be demolished. In this case they haven't yet worked out a way to safely get machinery in to do any work.

The beach area is pleasant enough and we had plenty to think about as we returned to the city and ultimately to our motel and on to the airport for the journey home.

All in all we had a great time, New Zealand is a fabulous place for a holiday, plenty to see, plenty to do and the people are really great.

Sweet as.

Our Big Red Bus. Christchurch, NZ

Stacks of containers used to prop up the remains of the surviving heritage building in the city. Christchurch, NZ

All that's left is the front wall. Christchurch, NZ

Tis walls been painted to look like a building. Christchurch, NZ

A steel frame in the shape of the original entrance is used stables the old buildings. Christchurch, NZ

This is the shopping alley and tram terminus, the first part to be completed in the city. Christchurch, NZ

Tram terminus. Christchurch, NZ

Even the Park Gates have crumbled. Christchurch, NZ

Anglican Cathedral. Christchurch, NZ

Anglican Cathedral Christchurch, NZ

Catholic Cathedral, pre-earthquake. Christchurch, NZ

Catholic Cathedral. Christchurch, NZ

City Centre. Christchurch, NZ

'Pop-up' Cathedral. A white chair for each of the 180 people who dies during the earthquake. It's kept spotless, neat and tidy by passersby. Christchurch, NZ

A two story building stands alone in the acres of devastation. As it was in ancient Pompeii, the graphic icon depicts its function. Christchurch, NZ

These twisted steel girders are the only ones that remain from the World Trade Centre in New York. Donated to the people of Christchurch as a reminder that from disaster and devastation, a great city will rise again. Christchurch, NZ