Brunswick Heads NSW 15-20 September 2019

Brunswick Heads NSW 15-20 September 2019

Back for our third stay at the North Coast Holiday Park at Brunswick Heads we found ourselves in a nice spot backing onto the river, but with a big old fig spreading out behind us over the water. This year we had a few water monitors come in to visit, but still no sign of the mythical python that's supposed to lurk around here.

Water monitor coming to visit us in the van park. Brunswick Heads NSW

The little town has started to change, picking the overflow from Byron Bay and of course the Gold Coast. A lot more cafes and a few more shops seem to be open. According to the Real Estate windows, housing prices are going a bit mental as well.

We were disappointed to find that the Brunswick Hotel no longer sees the need to entertain its guests with trivia nights or musical bingo and the like, relying entirely on selling the well-heeled patrons overpriced food and beverages in their newly renovated and extended bar area.

I went to the beach every morning for a run of about 3km down toward Byron Bay, and back again. which is quite pleasant except for the wind that never really went away the entire week.

Dropkicks thought they would build a teepee on the beach at Brunswick Heads NSW

Sand being blasted across the beach at Brunswick Heads NSW

The weather not being conducive to lazing on the beach or puttering around in small boats, we took a tour down to Ballina and back up through Byron where we were a) able to actually drive into and b) found a parking space in the street near the shops. Having parked we wandered about a bit, checking out the plethora of shops hawking goods to the throngs of foreign tourists, and then a quick look at the beach, which was not that inviting either. We thought about staying for lunch and then came to our senses and headed out of town up to the small village of Bangalow, where it's nice, and peaceful and pleasant.

Another day we followed the old highway up to Murwillumbah, through Billinudgel, Mooball, Boganger, Stokers Siding and the like. When it was the highway it was truly awful. Now that it's more or less empty, the road is a most pleasant Sunday drive. Mooball was a highlight on any trip north, mostly because it meant that you were getting close to Murwillumbah and hence finally making progress after the tortuous route over the mountains and volcano craters. It was also known for having cow-related themes and motifs everywhere. Mind you the town is only about a hundred meters long before you drive under the Occupation Bridge and past the almost unseen entrance to the only slightly larger town of Boganger. Why its called the Occupation Bridge I have no idea, but the name is painted in large letters right across it.

Moo! From Mooball NSW

We had sort of set out with a plan to follow the Old Wares Trail starting at Mooball. I ogled a bright-red convertible XJ6 and a range of motorbikes including one that might claim to be the biggest one ever made, before moving on to Boganger. Here we have a huge old emporium type of building filled to the rafter with 'stuff', all with suitable high price tags. I got talking to the fellow who owns it and he's a borderline hoarder. Why have one set of sewing machine drawers when you can have a hundred and six? Why have one or two old suitcases when you can have a wall full of them? Its all set out neat and tidy and clean, but the sheer volume of each item on display tends to dull the senses.

Daimler / XJ6 convertible. Mooball NSW

A streamliner built by Lucky Keiser to have a crack at the world speed record for motorcycles. The only connection to a motorcycle is that it had a motor and two wheels. The motor was originally V2 made out of a Rolls Royce V12 Merlin engine. Now it has a more mundane V8. He's called Luck because he's luck not to have killed himself in it. Mooball NSW

Worlds biggest motorbike. Hand made for $80,000, bought by this museum for $5000!  Mooball NSW

We made it into Murwillumbah and remembered almost straight away that for such a big town it has a surprising small number of cafes. We had to walk the length of the street to where we had eaten once years ago before we found a choice of two.

We also took a run up to Kingscliff Beach where we had a walk around the redeveloped shops and park area next to the beach. It is amazing how much of the beach they have saved after the big storms a few years back threatened to sweep the van park into the ocean.

Kingscliff beach post storms, 2012

Kingscliff beach 2019 after extensive work

Looking for a feed, where better than D'Bar cafe up on Point Danger? Took the obligatory snap of the lighthouse and went to the lookout looking for whales - I found a lizard on the ledge which was much more accessible and didn't need a 1000mm lens to get a snap.

D'Bar cafe and restaurant. Point Danger NSW

Captain Cook lighthouse and memorial and border market. Point Danger NSW / Qld

Water Monitor on top of the cliff. Point Danger NSW

Some people aren't happy to just walk around the cliff top, they want to throw themselves over the edge attached only by a tiny hook and thin rope.

Getting ready to abseil over the cliff... Point Danger NSW

...looking down to the waves crashing on the rocks below.  Point Danger NSW

And then there's this:

Yes, it's a real house built on what must be one of the most expensive lumps of dirt in the district. Different, you have to admit.

Biggara Waters Qld 11-14 September 2019

Biggara Waters Qld 11-14 September 2019

We came here to do two things: visit my mate Reg and to do Main Beach Parkrun. Biggara Waters, or Arundel, or Labrador (it all seems to be the one place) is about 7km north of Southport, up along the Broadwater. We stayed in the Treasure Island caravan park again, but thought we'd be clever and booked ahead to get an ensuite site. There are about 8 of them, all on the back row away from the busy Brisbane Road and the childrens' playgrounds and water park. Seemed like a good idea at the time. However, when we turned into the lane behind the last row of cabins we were confronted with a sea of tents, and 4x4s and kids and bikes and helmets and stuff everywhere. We had no trouble backing in to our spot, but the noise! From 6 in the morning to 9 at night. First the kiddies crying and screaming and running mad from first light. And again after 4pm when they all come home tired and cranky from one of the big theme parkes, and later as dad entertains his mates with more and more outrageous tales of 4x4 and camping derring-do over a few beers.  We just hadn't counted on the fact that young families (all without least 6 kids each under 5, or so) have taken to tents and tents-on-wheels and um need the ensuite arrangement to keep them all corralled.

Thats us tucked away in the back row in between all the tent-trailers. 

Anyhow, we caught up with Reg at his Rare Spares establishment and we went out and had dinner at Manos at Paradise Point, which is about 6km further north up the Broadwater. And very pleasant it was too.

We paid the obligatory visit to Surfers Paradise and it is as packed as ever with all kinds of humanity seemingly oozing out of the mega-multi-storied buildings that infest the place.

Built especially I am sure for the tourists to snap for their travel blogs (oh, that's right, this is one) the eponymous sign declaring that it is indeed Surfers Paradise. Mind you, no self respecting surfy would be seen dead here....

I'm sure any of the ripped and buffed boys roaming the place could leap it in a single bound! 

The beach. Surfers Paradise Qld

A artwork. Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise Qld

I managed a semi-decent time at Main Beach Parkrun, the first one in Australia having been started about 8 1/2 years ago. It follows the path and then the track north of the Surf Clubs, past the back of the Sheraton Hotel and up as far as Sea World, and back again of course. We later went and found the most delightful cafe in the 'little shops' part of Main Beach where we had breakfast.

Main beach near the SLSC. It's a straight drop down to the water.  And this is low tide.

Later on we went on the hour-and-a-half cruise around the canals, and this time, enabled by a low tide, we went right up into the Broadwater. The skipper was saying that there was a concerted effort being made to clear the waterways of unloved and abandoned boats, 160 having been removed already. Apparently its costs $20K per boat to get them out of the water and would you believe, crushed, and taken tp the tip. It has something to do with the rule-of-thumb being 10% of the cost of your boat every year for maintenance, not to mention mooring or storage, and it just gets to be too much, is the owners just walk away.

Still standing guard over Tiki Village, made famous as the first place Judith ever went on holidays... maybe 1969...
Had to laugh though, the current Tiki Village, which replaced 'her' Tiki Village was bought a while back by a well-heeled punter who was going to knock it down and build yet another multi story thing, but council said "No". I love it when they don't get their way, the spoiled sods. Maybe this totem is keeping its safe?

We went up to the end of the spit, past Seaworld and the other attractions, to the sea access, maybe called Southport Heads or Nerang Heads. It's a typical coastal bar situation and this is where the whale watch boat got swamped by a pair of incoming 'freak' waves just the other day. Lucky  that they weren't all washed overboard and drowned.

This dolphin did seem to be having any trouble with the bar. 

The very top end of Main Beach, at least I think its all called Main Beach. The wharf in the background is a sand pumping setup, trying to get some sand back down the beach in front of the big buildings

After we returned to the van, we tried toughing it out but eventually elected to go down to the park's cafe bar and have our complimentary drink, which later turned into a rather nice evening meal we hadn't planned on as well. At least the kiddies were all tucked up and asleep by the time we returned.

Not bad for a family friendly park - except that by the end of the day we all needed one!

Woodgate Bech Qld 4/5 September 2019

Woodgate Bech Qld 4/5 September 2019

For several reasons, one of which is because we hadn't been there before but mostly to see if this was a viable alternative to Agnes Water, in case we lost 'our' spot there, we decided to come here for a look-see. It's about 70km south of Bundaberg on a reasonable but definitely 'back' road. The journey from Agnes Water is in total about 200km but seemed to take all day, topped of by endless road works once you take the turn to Woodgate.

It all started to get some sort of familiar feel to it, but as soon as we hit the town proper we both said at the same time, 'Oi, we've been here before!' And so we had as it transpires, several years ago on an earlier reconnaissance tour. The park itself is one of the newly branded NRMA ones and while they have done a heap work to it, if we hadn't lucked into possibly the best spot, we wouldn't have rated it very highly. Apart from the van park, there is a long flat stretch of sand out the front, a nice path that follows the beach, a pub and not much else. Here are the highlights:

Woodgate Beach Qld

Interesting table setting at Woodgate beach pub

At he northerly end of the beach there is a place called Theodolite Creek, and despite my best efforts I couldn't find out why it was so called, I had imagined it might have been a place where a survey of this part of the country was started, being at sea level.

We amused ourselves by driving the 40km out to Childers for a cup of coffee! One thing that we both noticed was that the roadworks were being done at a terrific pace, bits we had been on yesterday were now finished, and by the time we came back from Childers, even more was done. Amazing, maybe they should get a job out on the Bruce....

We ended our stay with dinner at the hotel, which was very pleasant, but in the end, we were both very disappointed with the place and left ourselves wondering why we gave up two nights at Agnes Water for it. Oh, well, we now know better for future reference.

Noosa Qld 4-11 September 2019

Noosa Qld 4-11 September 2019

We're not really camped in Noosa, we are really in Tewantin about 10km up along the river, but as everyone does here, I'll call it Noosa because it's 'cooler'.

For example, Noosa Marina isn't in Noosa, its right here in Tewantin, and a fine place it is too. We discovered that the Harbour Wine Bar situated right on the deck of the marina, has happy hour from 4:30 to 5:30 and they serve glasses of chilled Prosecco for $5 a pop. Add a cheese and antipasto plate, sit back and watch the ferry come and go. Nice.

Another example is the Noosa Show. Now, this is actually at Pomona and has been since 1908. Pomona is a tiny village 30 km to the west of Noosa, up in the hills. And a nice place it is too. We wandered up to have a look around and spend a pleasant hour watching the show jumping and eating snag sandwiches. Mind you the 'Classic Car Show' was about half a dozen tired old Holdens, and the current model Mustang of the fellow that works at the BP in front of our van park.

Noosa Show. Pomona Qld

Classic Cars. Noosa Show. Pomona Qld

And of course you couldn't come to this part of the world and not go to Berkelouw's Bookshop in Eumundi.

Eumundi Qld

Ah, yes, well, 'someone' also comes here to fight their way around the markets....

Eumundi Markets, Eumundi Qld

In years past I have participated in the Noosa Parkrun, which of course is at Tewantin, but this year I forwent the pleasure and went down to the Nambour Parkrun instead. Apart from collecting another Parkrun Tourist event, I thought that maybe it might be a bit easier than the Noosa one, which has a few steep sections.

The Nambour event is of course at Bli Bli, about 10km from Nambour, and about 30km down the Bruce toward Brisbane from Tewantin. It's in a National Park on the delightfully named Radar Hill Road, which reflects its WWII radar site heritage.

The first thing is that from the carpark it's an 800m walk, scramble, climb to the start, from which the track goes directly uphill for the first 100m or so. The whole course is run on fire trails and seems to go continuously uphill, except for the bits where it drops straight down! I made it around under 50 minutes but I was all-in. It makes the Noosa Parkrun look like a walk in the park.

Nambour Parkrun. Radar Hill, Bli Bli Qld

. Looking back down one of the many hills. Look closely and you'll see a small figure further down, just to give you some idea of steep and far it was. Nambour Parkrun. Radar Hill, Bli Bli Qld

One of my favourite places for morning walks is the Wooroi Day Use area in Tewantin National Park, which is 300m up the street from our front door. In the last few years its been taken over by mountain-bike riders for whom it is a fabulous playground, and so I have to get there early about 7am and even then keep my wits about me as I bolt around one of the many tracks.

Wooroi Day Use area trail. Tewantin National Park, Tewantin Qld

Random flower with a shaft of light on it.
Tewantin National Park, Tewantin Qld

Mind you, I stopped going there the day that Peregian Beach went up in flames. It was a bit spooky, but we had been at Peregian Beach only hours before the fire got started and so felt a connection with them.

Peregian Beach. Qld

View from Mt Tinbeerwah overlooking Noosa and surrounds.
That's the headland of Noosa on the left. Peregian Beach is on the far right. Tewantin is  on the bottom on the left.

We thought we had heard that The Big Pineapple at Nambour had been done up and reopened, so it was worth a look. Only problem was that it was closed and being gutted, still they did have a nice Big Pineapple, which may have been cleaned up since we were there last.

The Big Pineapple. Nambour Qld

We also went to Yandina, where The Ginger Factory is, but we went into Nutworks on the other side of the street, just for fun. It's basically a shop selling macadamia nut-related things and other tourist-trap items, such as Emu Butter skin cream, and The Nurse branded coffee beans, etc. They advertise out the front that they have FREE tasting and FREE tours. The tastings are macadamia nuts, from raw, through various cooking steps to chilli-chocolate coated nut crumble or some such. But, they were free. The factory tour was a walk past three windows which open onto The Roasting room, The Chocolate Room and the Factory Room. There was a lady in the Chocolate Room poking about with a big revolving drum, and one has to assume she was coating macadamias with chocolate as there was a tray of them on the other side of the room.

Chocolate Room. Outworks, Yandina Qld

Drove into the quaint little town of Yandina itself and had a coffee before poking about taking some snaps.

Yandina Qld

Original lifting crane at Yandina Station.

Yandina station, opened in 1891.

And just for fun, after last drinks at the marina, we drove down into Noosa itself and did the obligatory Hastings Street walk, but at night, just to be different.

Hastings Street. Noosa Qld

For a last snap, I'll put up a picture of the Noosa Longboards neon sign. Now here's the twist, when we came here in 1999, Noosa Longboards was located in Noosaville, so at least they have now got it right! It's also where a certain young lady, who was 15 at the time, bought herself a nice pair of thongs with a lovely plastic flower. Very trendy.

Noosa Longboards Co. Noosa Qld

Agnes Water / Town of 1770 28 August to 2 September 2019

Agnes Water / Town of 1770 28 August to 2 September 2019

In some respects, Agnes Water is the main attraction for us in Queensland. And with a spot in the van park on the beach with this view and access, who can blame us?

Judy relaxing into the 'vibe' that is Agnes Water

The shortest of walks down the grassy path brings you to this:

Agnes Water Beach, looking north from our van park as the moonlight plays upon the gentle ripples...

Or you can take a 3km stroll up the beach before breakfast, take a snap and stroll back. Breakfast can wait, may as well have a swim in the crystal clear waters as well...

My favourite beach is Chinamans, just down the road, just a quick drive and park right at the beach. Provided the tide is not too high, it's a delightful walk, and before 730 in the morning, deserted. 

One set of feet out, and the same ones back. Chinamans Beach, Agnes Water

Or if you are early and can take the time to sit and play with your camera, you can amuse yourself trying to get the sun through the waves as they crash upon the rocks

Chinamans Beach, Agnes Water Qld

But it's not all beaches, one other little spot is the Reedy Creek paperbark forest walk The first year we saw this, 2016, there was a heap of water which made the stepping stones fun. Since then it's been dry, not bone dry obviously or it all would dead, especially the wild maiden hair ferns that are climbing all over everything. 

The stepping stones are still fun, even if a misstep isn't going to end in a great photo. paperbark walk,. Agnes Water Qld

Judy in one of her favourite places, Reedy Creek Paperbark forest trail, Agnes Water Qld

 

Apart from walking along the beach, or swimming in the ocean, there's a range of coffee shops a short walk away (provided you desperately need a change from the excellent Holiday Cafe in the van park itself). As a diversion this year, to satisfy my need to collect Parkrun Tourist kudos, and because the nearest one to Agnes Water is in Bundaberg some 125km away, we went into town on Friday night and stayed at a motel, chosen as being close to the said Parkrun and described as 'the best in town'. Later, while checking for the location of Parkrun, we discovered that there are two in Bundaberg, the one near us and the other at Bargara Beach, Bundaberg's closest beach, about 12km to the east. After an inspection of the nearby track, we went over the Bargara Beach, which also happens to be the site of the main caravan park and the best cafes, and had a look at their track. 

Sorry lovely Bundy Parkrun people, it's a no brainer: runs three times around a gravel / dirt / grass / hilly, confusing track in an uninspiring scrubby park, or run one lap out along the esplanade path toward the north, turn around, come back and go the same sort of distance out the other way with the ocean and views to one side, on nice proper paths and boardwalks, enjoying the sea-breeze and scenery? Our only gripe was that if we had been more thorough in our search, we would have stayed in one of the several hotels overlooking the ocean and beaches.....

Highlight of our big night out was the 2-day charity craft extravaganza held in the Bundaberg community centre. As its was for a good cause I tagged along and spent a half hour or so as we wandered past stall after stall of the same stuff: candles, essential oils, knitted this, crocheted that, ad infinitum (it's a big hall). One thing that amused me was that all the stall holders must have been to the same two courses: one to teach them how to open up a sales pitch: 'oh what a lovely dress / handbag / husband' and the other was obviously macrame, as they all had some, the theme this year was door curtains, similar in style to the lurid blue plastic one we had in our first flat in Hornsby. And of course every conceivable accessory for your pampered pooch, a must have at any show/ market.

We went in search of dinner, and after being left speechless while stopped at the red light when one of the local hoons drove past at highspeed using the right-turn only lane to pass us and drove straight through the red light, we settled for the 'Spotted Dog' tavern, just over the railway tracks from our motel. (Did I mention the many trains that all blast their horn at the crossing, or the groaning loo plumbing?) The Spotted Dog appears to be an exercise in eat-in fast-food. Its busy, packed actually, and your food arrives before you've sat down and cleared away the moment you put your cutlery side-by-side on your plate. It had zero atmosphere in its lurid green plastic interior and the obvious intention was to get you out and another punter in as soon as possible. 

Back at our own little piece of paradise, we shouted ourselves to dinner at the 1770 hotel for Fathers' Day, where we have eaten before, but this time it was not so good: Expensive (note the capital 'E') and in the case of the barramundi, almost in need of a second helping to get a feed. Very disappointing.

Undeterred, and mainly because its such a lovely place, we went back to the pub the next night to drink wine on the balcony bar and watch the sunset.

Sunset. Town of 1770, Qld

Sunset. Town of 1770, Qld

 Fortunately for us, the van park has adopted a new 'grace' policy, which means you can keep your spot for the next year even if you won't be there. But only the once. The upshot is that 2021 is booked, yeah, can't wait.