Brunswick Heads NSW 15-20 September 2019

Brunswick Heads NSW 15-20 September 2019

Back for our third stay at the North Coast Holiday Park at Brunswick Heads we found ourselves in a nice spot backing onto the river, but with a big old fig spreading out behind us over the water. This year we had a few water monitors come in to visit, but still no sign of the mythical python that's supposed to lurk around here.

Water monitor coming to visit us in the van park. Brunswick Heads NSW

The little town has started to change, picking the overflow from Byron Bay and of course the Gold Coast. A lot more cafes and a few more shops seem to be open. According to the Real Estate windows, housing prices are going a bit mental as well.

We were disappointed to find that the Brunswick Hotel no longer sees the need to entertain its guests with trivia nights or musical bingo and the like, relying entirely on selling the well-heeled patrons overpriced food and beverages in their newly renovated and extended bar area.

I went to the beach every morning for a run of about 3km down toward Byron Bay, and back again. which is quite pleasant except for the wind that never really went away the entire week.

Dropkicks thought they would build a teepee on the beach at Brunswick Heads NSW

Sand being blasted across the beach at Brunswick Heads NSW

The weather not being conducive to lazing on the beach or puttering around in small boats, we took a tour down to Ballina and back up through Byron where we were a) able to actually drive into and b) found a parking space in the street near the shops. Having parked we wandered about a bit, checking out the plethora of shops hawking goods to the throngs of foreign tourists, and then a quick look at the beach, which was not that inviting either. We thought about staying for lunch and then came to our senses and headed out of town up to the small village of Bangalow, where it's nice, and peaceful and pleasant.

Another day we followed the old highway up to Murwillumbah, through Billinudgel, Mooball, Boganger, Stokers Siding and the like. When it was the highway it was truly awful. Now that it's more or less empty, the road is a most pleasant Sunday drive. Mooball was a highlight on any trip north, mostly because it meant that you were getting close to Murwillumbah and hence finally making progress after the tortuous route over the mountains and volcano craters. It was also known for having cow-related themes and motifs everywhere. Mind you the town is only about a hundred meters long before you drive under the Occupation Bridge and past the almost unseen entrance to the only slightly larger town of Boganger. Why its called the Occupation Bridge I have no idea, but the name is painted in large letters right across it.

Moo! From Mooball NSW

We had sort of set out with a plan to follow the Old Wares Trail starting at Mooball. I ogled a bright-red convertible XJ6 and a range of motorbikes including one that might claim to be the biggest one ever made, before moving on to Boganger. Here we have a huge old emporium type of building filled to the rafter with 'stuff', all with suitable high price tags. I got talking to the fellow who owns it and he's a borderline hoarder. Why have one set of sewing machine drawers when you can have a hundred and six? Why have one or two old suitcases when you can have a wall full of them? Its all set out neat and tidy and clean, but the sheer volume of each item on display tends to dull the senses.

Daimler / XJ6 convertible. Mooball NSW

A streamliner built by Lucky Keiser to have a crack at the world speed record for motorcycles. The only connection to a motorcycle is that it had a motor and two wheels. The motor was originally V2 made out of a Rolls Royce V12 Merlin engine. Now it has a more mundane V8. He's called Luck because he's luck not to have killed himself in it. Mooball NSW

Worlds biggest motorbike. Hand made for $80,000, bought by this museum for $5000!  Mooball NSW

We made it into Murwillumbah and remembered almost straight away that for such a big town it has a surprising small number of cafes. We had to walk the length of the street to where we had eaten once years ago before we found a choice of two.

We also took a run up to Kingscliff Beach where we had a walk around the redeveloped shops and park area next to the beach. It is amazing how much of the beach they have saved after the big storms a few years back threatened to sweep the van park into the ocean.

Kingscliff beach post storms, 2012

Kingscliff beach 2019 after extensive work

Looking for a feed, where better than D'Bar cafe up on Point Danger? Took the obligatory snap of the lighthouse and went to the lookout looking for whales - I found a lizard on the ledge which was much more accessible and didn't need a 1000mm lens to get a snap.

D'Bar cafe and restaurant. Point Danger NSW

Captain Cook lighthouse and memorial and border market. Point Danger NSW / Qld

Water Monitor on top of the cliff. Point Danger NSW

Some people aren't happy to just walk around the cliff top, they want to throw themselves over the edge attached only by a tiny hook and thin rope.

Getting ready to abseil over the cliff... Point Danger NSW

...looking down to the waves crashing on the rocks below.  Point Danger NSW

And then there's this:

Yes, it's a real house built on what must be one of the most expensive lumps of dirt in the district. Different, you have to admit.