Showing posts with label Kangaroo Island SA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kangaroo Island SA. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Stokes bay, Emu Bay, Peugeot, old cars, ducks, duck lagoon, Pardana, Kangaroo island

Today we did the north part of the island, well as far as the tarred road went, we weren't really up for the 80km of rough-as-bags dirt road right down to Cape Borda. Instead we went to Stokes Bay, which was a pretty enough little rocky bay. At one end there is a sign on the rocky headland pointing into the rock and claiming that there was a beach. True enough, there was a kind of tunnel through the headland that brought you out onto a truly lovely beach, talk about your hidden gems.

To put the record straight, during the winter months there is nothing at these places. So for a feed or anything else, one had to retreat to the last town, which in our case was Parndana, a sleepier hollow than any you are likely to find. We chose bakery/IGA over the hotel and were rewarded with an excellent bowl of pumpkin soup and a home-made sausage roll. The owner was kind enough to give us a bit of history which included the information that the 'tunnel' was man made by a couple of 'cockies' with a few sticks of jelly and a lot of time on their hands.

On our way back to Kingscote, we took a turn to the quaintly named Ducks Lagoon and were glad we did. Obviously, it is a lagoon (yes, there is a heap of water laying around on the island), which they have set up as a bird refuge with hides and the like. It also skirts around a paddock of a farm which the farmer walked off in 1967, leaving behind a few old cars and machines and sheds and the like. Not to mention the now defunct eucalyptus distillery with accompanying rusted old stills and other equipment.

Last on the agenda for the day was a visit to Emu Bay, just north of Kingscote, which is so much more upmarket than anything else we've seen, we were immediately reminded of Double Bay. There's nothing there except magnificent houses overlooking the sweeping vista of the unspoilt bay, but as we found out, it's enough to quadruple land values. There was also a nicely set out serve-yourself van and tent camping ground. One just has to work out how one gets a van over here on that boat, which obviously can be done.

It was schnitzel night at the Queenscliffe (old name for Kingscote) Family Hotel so how could we refuse? Suitably sated, we have retired for the night.

Here's a few snaps, birds feature tonight, they balance my shots of old rusty cars!


Hippo. Emu Bay Kangaroo Island SA

Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island SA

Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island SA

Beach. Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island SA

Beach. Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island SA

Xanthorrhoea.  Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island SA

Xanthorrhoea.  Stokes Bay, Kangaroo Island SA

Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Blue Wren. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Sheeps. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Red Breasted robin. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Red River Gum. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Eucalyptus Still. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Eucalyptus Still. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Dead Peugeot. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Old car. Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Duck Lagoon. Kangaroo Island SA

Emu Bay. Kangaroo Island SA

Bird. Emu Bay. Kangaroo Island SA

Pelicans. Emu Bay. Kangaroo Island SA

Kangaroo Island SA, Seal Bay, Admirals Arch, Cape Couedic, Lighthouse, Weirs Cove, Remarkable Rocks

Well, a big day today (yesterday actually, I'm a bit slack!). Kangaroo Island is a lot bigger than you might imagine an island off an island to be. It's some 150 km long and 50 km wide. The odd part is that the towns are at one end and the attractions are at the other. Which might actually be a good thing  given the fragile and sensitive nature of these natural wonders.

So today I'm taking you on tour with us: A few words and a few snaps from each of the places we stopped at.

First, we took a detour down a dirt road to Vivonne Beach, which had some really bad reports on the 'net. They were right, the place looks like a cross between Deliverence Country and the Hill Billies. Shame, the beach was spectacular.



Seal Bay, some 50km down the road, is a long-time breeding ground for the endangered Australian Fur Seal. At first you get a bit of a surprise that you have top go in via a visitors centre, where you have to decide between the ranger guided beach walk or the self guided boardwalk. We opted for the boardwalk and purchased our tickets at what seemed a bit-of-an-ask of a price, but when you're on tour and not likely to be back in a hurray, sometimes you just have to pay up and take a chance.

The chance was worth it. They have a fantastic boardwalk down to the a great viewing spot right over the beach. You are safe and comfortable and getting a good eyeful, and the animals and the environment is  completely safe as well. Oddly, almost the first thing we saw was a huge skeleton, we guessed correctly at a whale (juvenile humpback as it turns out) that was beached here and later washed up onto the dunes. Then you start looking for the seals. You can see the obvious one or two on the beach, but as you get more accustomed to the landscape, you start to see them all over the place. They apparently go fishing for 3 days at a time, come back to this same beach and crash-out for 3 days to recover. What is completely amazing is just how far they will travel from the beach, up the very steep dunes to find their perfect spot.






From Seal Bay we travelled further along, now looking for a feed, which we found at the Koala Walk Sanctuary. We opted not to annoy the Koalas, but ate a very good turkey roll and drank good coffee instead. On or way out we were surprised to see a couple of adult and baby Cape Barren Geese. Some snaps :



Suitable fed, we powered on down the rest of the 100km to get to the Flinders Chase, a national park covering most of the end of the island. We bought our day pas and received our touring instructions:
1. The Lighthouse, 2, The Admirals Arch, 3, Weirs cove and finally 4, The Remarkable Rocks. We were left in no doubt by the officious ranger sales lady that this is what we would do, or else!

OK, so it seemed the best way after all, so here are some snaps of the area called Cape Couedic. Now keep in mind that these places are spectacular so just a hundred snaps is not enough, so you just get a taste, starting with the Lighthouse built in 1901





Then you go down to the end of the earth, park and walk down another fantastic boardwalk to view the Admirals arch. The area is also home to a colony of New Zealand Fur Seals.









The lighthouse was totally isolated until the 1940s, everything, including the humans, was delivered by ship to a place called Weirs Cove, about a mile away from the lighthouse itself. Keep in mind that this was considered the best and easiest place to gain access to the land! They originally had to clamber up the 300 metre sheer cliff face carrying everything up by hand, before they cut out a groove in the cliff face and built a flying fox. This building was the store house, there were three lighthouse-keeper families, and each had their own store room.





Ok, so we are just about finished, the last stop was the Remarkable Rocks. The pictures, as always, really can't do the spectacle justice.  Here's just a few...










Here's my favourite snap, taken on the walk down to the rocks. It just shows that you have to keep your eyes open at all times; you are walking toward the big rocks, completely focussed, but if you look away across to the north, this was what you would have seen, but then only as long as the wind was blowing and the sea pounding the shore and the sun shining from just the right place...