Port Douglas Qld 11 August 2019

Port Douglas Qld 11 August 2019

Well, our week here in (or almost in) Port Douglas is coming to an end. After the first few days of coolness and drizzle, the weather has cleared up and it's pushing 30c most days. What have we done? The big items were the tour of Mossman Gorge with the native guide, which was interesting and enjoyable. Drove down to Cairns and went to the markets up at Karunda, which is a pleasant enough drive, but the 'markets' are just more of the same tourist-trash as everywhere, and basically it just provides somewhere to go. We did have a rather nice lunch at the pub though, one of the place's redeeming qualities. We also had booked on a music tour up the river on the Lady Douglas. supposed to go from 6.30pm to 7.30pm, but wait, what a surprise, they called and cancelled it citing us as being the only guests. But of course wouldn't we love to go on the 4.30pm sunset tour. What a giant pain, and a mistake to be sure. The boat was packed and noisy and the bogans and their snotty kids were running amok. As for a 'tour', it travelled past mangrove tree after mangrove tree for an hour and half, the ennui interspersed only with the sighting of the resident crocodile and the obligatory sunken yacht. We ended up back past the marina and out a little bit into the bay for the sunset climax - or not. I couldn't get off fast enough. To make up for our disappointment we went to the Courthouse Hotel in the heart of the town and ate a bucket of king prawns and quaffed down a very nice bottle of Prosecco - that'll show 'em!

Brian quaffing Prosecco. Court House Hotel, Port Douglas, Qld

On Saturday we got up at 5.45am (yes, very early indeed) and drove the 70km down to Cairns so I could do a Parkrun at 7am, which was pleasant enough. After we went and found somewhere salubrious to have a big breakfast of eggs and salmon and tomatoes and mushrooms, and several cups of coffee. I think this is the only place and time we have done this, but highly appreciated after the early start. We tramped yet-another-market across the road near the pool, as we have done several times in the past but to say it was not much to look at would be heaping praise upon it. We followed this up with a visit to the big shopping centre and bought a pair of shoes each - my Parkrun ones have had it!

When we were through with the thrill of the big city we wended our way back to Palm Cove, about 20km and 200 roundabouts north of Cairns central, where we plonked ourselves on the beach and relaxed for a few hours. Finally I was driven by hunger pangs to go and find some take-away food from the forest of silver-service restaurants that line the Esplanade. I opted for fish and chips for me and calamari for Judy, and both were excellent. Another hour or so doing nought and we thought that a last coffee on the way back to the car would be a fitting end to a nice day out.

Today our last day and apart from the obligatory visit to the Port Douglas Markets, huge, but why do all the stalls look familiar? Honestly, you go because there is not much else to do that doesn't cost an arm and a leg, and who knows, you might find a bargain. Judith bought some odd looking aubergines for 85c and a new hat for $15, and that was our contribution to the local economy. Anyhow, that's been our Port Douglas stay for another year.

Port Douglas Qld July 25-29 2018

Its only a short run from Atherton to Port Douglas via the mountain pass down to Mossman and we made it down to the bottom safely. It's probably a better way down than going via Kuranda and Cairns. Actually the van park is the Big 4 at Craiglie, which is about 4km south of the turn-off to Port Douglas proper. It makes for a quieter park and a nice little drive into the shops / beach / marina / markets.

What possessed us I don't know, but we went up to 'the Daintree' for the day. First of all you go into the Daintree village, and then wonder why you are there, because there is nothing there except a couple of cafe places and outlets for crocodile cruises. Not a problem, we'll go back to the turn-off and take the ferry across into the Daintree itself. Or not. We waited over an hour for the ferry, but finally, for the small sum of $28 for a return ticket (just how many one-way tickets do they sell?) we were under way.

Vehicular ferry. Daintree River, Daintree Qld

We headed straight for the Daintree experience looking for lunch and, well, an experience. It is one of those places where you walk around a raised path through the treetops and it is the first 'thing' you come to on the road, some 10km from the ferry. Sadly the moment we walked in we remembered that the cafe is perfectly neat and clean, but useless. They make coffee and have a handful of pre-made sandwiches, a dodgy looking frittata and a few cakes. We made the best of what they had because it was now 2pm and we were starving. However, we had second thoughts about taking 'the experience' and instead jumped back in the car and went looking for the Daintree Ice-cream Factory and Fresh Fruit farm.

We were looking forward to an ice ice-cream each from this establishment, only to find that they only dish up one style of ice cream, made up of 4 different flavours, one supposes from the fruit that they have at hand. Today was Black Sapote (chocolate pudding flavour), mango, wattle seed, and coconut. After one finishes ones ice-cream confection, one can follow the marked path around the farm and play spotto with the various fruit trees that they have, none of which are actually in fruit at this time. OK, so it was a pleasant enough way to pass a half an hour, but not something you'd go back to in a hurry.

Daintree Qld

We ended up driving the rest of the 40km up to Tribulation point, took an obligatory walk along the beach and headland lookout, sadly, no cassowaries, before doing the only thing to do, drive back again!

Kulkie Beach. Tribulation Point. Daintree Qld

On the way back, we stopped for a quick look at the Alexander Lookout and then back to the ferry. Our luck was in, straight on the first ferry.

Daintree River. Alexander Lookout. Daintree Qld

Fern. Alexander Lookout. Daintree Qld

Another day we revisited Mossman Gorge, which is still very beautiful and still only costs less than $10, and that's for the bus ride up to the walking track. You could give the bus a miss and walk (2.5km uphill) but why would you? We spent a pleasant hour and half wandering around taking too many snaps and watching the fearless young persons swim in the freezing waters of the river and dicing with the dangers of strong currents and unforgiving rocks. We even stayed for lunch at the delightful cafe.

Mossman Gorge Qld

It is peak tourist season as the log-jam on the suspension bridge shows
Mossman Gorge Qld

Rocks, water etc. Mossman Gorge Qld

Moss at Moss-man Gorge Qld

J Black. Ace Photographer. Mossman Gorge Qld

A few trips into 'town', to see the beach, the Flagstaff lookout, the markets, the boats, the shops etc, not to mention the odd lunch and coffee along the way, filled up a few more days. One night the sound of live music reached our caravan and upon investigation turned out to be two old fellows playing guitars and doing rock and roll classics in a blues style. Quite an entertaining evening, maybe the wine helped?

Four mile beach from Flagstaff Hill. Port Douglas Qld

Random view from Flagstaff Hill. Port Douglas Qld

Random boat activity. Port Douglas Qld

Today, after the Port Douglas Markets, we wandered down to Cairns to have a swim at Palm Cove beach, and then wandered back again. Tomorrow we are off down to South Mission Beach for a few days, which signals the start of our return journey.

Jacana on lily pad. Cattana Wetlands Cairns Qld

Port Douglas Qld 10 August 2017

Another beautiful day in Far North Qld, so we chose to head back to Port Douglas for lunch and a cruise on the Lady Douglas, which travels up Dixon Inlet which is behind the town.

We have been hearing all about how the winter months are the best for the wildlife, especially birds, which come done south from Cape York as the wetlands dry up.

Sadly, our tally so far, apart from the Jocana on the wetlands in Cairns itself, we have seen: 3x crocodiles, family of Ospreys and Greater Egret. Here's a few shots from todays tour:

Quite a few of these once glorious and idiotically expensive craft left abandoned in the mud. The Skipper was suggesting it's because you can't get full insurance for private craft and when it all goes pear-shaped, it's easier to just cut and run. Port Douglas Qld

Alpha croc - 4m. Resting up after making a meal of a lesser croc - 2.5m the previous day. Port Douglas Qld

Top end of Dixon inlet. Look closely, there's our lone Greater Egret who appears to have the place to himself. Port Douglas Qld

Coming into Port Douglas Qld

We stopped to snap this osprey nest which appeared to have chicks in  residence, when  Mummy Osprey turns up with dinner, a nice big fish. The Daddy Osprey was right behind her, and one of them stayed to tear the fish apart and feed the babies.  Port Douglas Qld

Just north of Cairns, these hundreds of rock piles have appeared. We've seen places with 4 or 5, but this is just crazy! Someone obviously had some time on their hands. Cairns Qld

Sunset Cruise, Port Douglas, Qld

Day 7

Don’t ask us why, but we ventured into Cairns proper today, long enough to know that we don’t miss the hustle and bustle and the interminable traffic. 

The antidote is a sunset cruise out of Port Douglas on the catamaran Sailaway..

Ah, this is the life, perched up on the bow of a zillion dollars’ worth of cat, being handed aperitifs and sipping at a glass of champers. The sails went up, the engine went off and over the next hour and a half, the sun went down and we floated around a serene sea. Ah, this is the life – or did I say that already!

Ah! This is the life. Cheers!

Port Douglas 2

Choices, choices. In 2004 I think we had one choice, now we have about 4 really good looking reef cruises to choose from. We chose one, the receptionist did her damnedest to talk us out of it. Judy prevailed in the end, but we have ended up with a different cruise operator for the three different cruises we are going on.

Today it's Calypso time, a tour to the outer reef for a day snorkelling. It’s a smaller boat than the big Quicksilver outfit that takes 300, ours takes 23. The day starts with a 1 ½ hour run out to the outer reef; Opal reef in particular. The water is the most spectacular blue, blending into the green of the shallow reef proper. Even though you know what to expect, you never seem to be ready for what you see when you stick your head under the water surface. The coral abounds in every shape, size and colour, and the fish – they are just spectacular. And when the sun came out the whole spectacle ramps up about 10 more notches. It’s just bloody fantastic. Back on the boat there was hot tea and cake before a short cruise to another nearby spot. Then lunch and then another spot. Each site is the same, yet different. The second site was a bommie, an outcrop of coral that rises straight up from the bottom like a little mini-island. This was great, you just swam around the whole thing in a circle, immersing yourself in schools of brightly striped black and white fish, or electric blue ones, or chasing pods of green and blue wrasse or brilliant yellow butterfly fish.

The thing to do though, is to just stop over a likely place and concentrate, before long you start to see all the other tiny fish, the star fish, the sea slugs, the giant clams, the grasses. Everywhere you look, it’s just a full-on feast of colour and life.

We had a great day and what better way to finish than by having prawns and salmon and cheese and dips with a crusty cob loaf and washed down with a nice white wine. I tell ya, you wouldn't be dead for quids!

Sorry, no snaps, didn't manage to rush out and by an underwater digital camera!

Mossman Gorge, Qld

Day 3

Another day, another market. This time we are at Port Douglas and the market is pretty huge, even if it is the same old, same old. Not to worry, someone enjoys browsing in every stall and trying on every top, skirt, wrap on offer.

With the market out of the way, we took ourselves off for a leisurely stroll of the Mossman Gorge. What!!!!! What is all this building and information centre and shop and why is the road blocked? Seems that last year they built this decent sort of information centre and closed traffic access to the gorge itself. Now, for only $6, you are driven up and back in a minibus. The carpark is the same but they have installed a big new walkway up the gorge and including a suspension bridge over one of the creeks. It’s an odd place though; you keep expecting to come across the head of the gorge and a waterfall, but you don’t. You’re led up the path through and above the rainforest, with views of the river and then up to a lookout. You can’t see anything much because the rainforest has grown so much, and then you go on to a junction where you can take a 2km round trip hike. I was by myself at that stage and elected to give it a miss. One of the ‘attractions’ is a swim in a rock pool, but you’d have to be a iceberg to actually go in. On the way back down we took the alternate path and boardwalk which is the original one we remember.

Back in the centre, we decided on the Barra Burger option and it was a struggle to eat it all. One thing they did have, which we highly recommend, is a fresh pineapple fruit drink. Yummo!

Port Douglas’ main street needed to be examined, in case there were some dress shops that had been missed (there were), and then we checked out the 4 mile beach. Just as well it was low tide, because the beach is really not much more than a narrow strip of sand and extensive sandy mud flats. 

Mossman Gorge, Qld

Port Douglas, Qld

First thing to do today was to replace the left hand low beam light, which blew out a few days ago, producing a ‘check low beam light’ warning message, which made a change from the ‘check park light’ error we have had since before getting into Broome. The park light may have gone away a few days ago, but having put a new headlamp in we definitely don’t have it any more. And as a bonus, the ‘angel’ eyes (a ring of soft light around the edge of each headlamp – who knows what they are for) are all working again as well.

Decided to go the long way round to get to Port Douglas, up through Mareeba and Mt Molloy then down the mountain, through the windy twist road, all in 2^nd gear, and popping out on the coast just south of Mossman.

We were a bit disappointed by the van park, it’s out of Port Douglas about 5km further down the road toward Cairns, and compared to Atherton, it’s a dessert. It’s not really, just a little less greener and lush than up on the tablelands. We took a drive into Port Douglas itself and ogled all the changes since we were here last, about 10 years ago. As we wandered down onto the marina we came across the Lady Douglas, a faux paddle steamer going out on its cruise up the river, so we jumped on.

Very pleasant way to spend a hour and a half. Their highlight is spotting a few crocodiles and feeding a few birds. The Sea Eagle just ignored the offerings of fresh fish tossed up on the mud bank, until we started to steam away and then it swooped down and grabbed the free feed.

Failed completely to find any beach except the start of the 4 mile, up in town. We’d like to take a boat ride or two out to the reef, and spent an hour choosing which ones we liked the look of. I think that last time there was only the one, the one and only FantaSea. Now Quicksilver seem to be everywhere and own everything.

Port Douglas, Qld