Timber Creek, NT

Couldn’t resist an early morning dip in the spring, so our 730am start was a bit later. We had planned to get to Katherine about 830, grab one of the big van spots at the information centre carpark and then hit the shops for a few things we were out of. By the time we go there, the place was packed with vans and rigs and trucks of every size. Luck was with us though and as one drove out, we drove in. With stocks replenished, I thought I’d be clever and get fuel as well. Pulled into the Shell, only to realize too late that they were petrol-only pumps and that getting out was going to be a problem. Fabulous how everyone stops to watch the fun! No harm done, we did without the fuel and headed out for Victoria River some 200km to the west. 

All the way up from Blackall, though the Isa, The Barkly tablelands and up through the middle to Katherine had a slight air of familiarity to us, and except for the rocky outcrops near the Isa is pretty boring monotonous. But, driving west from Katherine the land is generally flat and scrubby with plenty of signs of the Brahman cattle for which the area is known. You keep driving toward what look like high ridge lines in the distance, and then you notice you are climbing and that the road has become winding rather than straight. Before you realise it, those ridge lines are boxing you into a valley and they themselves have become quite pronounced: very steep grassed sides and a sharp ridge along the top. This is exactly the path that Pat Durack described as he drove that first head of cattle in 150 years ago. The ridges change abruptly as they become sheer cliff faces of the darkest red chocolate brown you can imagine. The foliage is thick with grasses and trees covered in dense bright green leaves. It truly is an amazing sight. And still the valley continues right up to the actual crossing of the Victoria River, where there is a road house and van park and a decent feed for weary travelers.

The 80km or so from Victoria River to Timber Creek see the land opening up a bit, it’s almost as if you are driving along an ancient river bed lined on both sides by those same ridge lines, this time they are distinguished by having a single strata of some rock running the whole length of them, about two thirds of the way up. Even when there is a gap, you can plainly see how that strata would have once jumped that gap. The light was right and everything, but sadly there are precious few places to stop for snapping, especially east of the Victoria River.

We didn’t really know what to expect at Timber Creek, we only stopped here for fuel last year, and the first thing that greeted us were the signs demanding payment up-front for fuel, and the ATM thing being secured behind bars and mesh that Pentridge would be proud of. The pumps themselves were just a single old rusty pair stuck out in the dusty dirt access road. One of the van parks, which was behind these pumps and the office, looked a bit of a wreck. So we were a bit nervous about what we might find now that we wanted to stay overnight (Kununurra is still 200+km away). As we pulled in, the first thing we see is that the pumps have been demolished and there were workmen building an awning and they had most of the access road blocked. We took a chance and turned in anyway. 

Much to our surprise and relief, the Timber Creek Caravan Park is alive and well. It’s obviously had a heap of work done on it, all freshly painted, clean and tidy grounds with lush grass and big shady trees, including a magnificent Boab. As it was early, we could take our pick of spots to get the afternoon shade (did I mention that it was 32.5deg), settle in and then go for a swim in the pool, which apart from being cloudy due to the artesian water, was lovely and refreshing (read ‘not frigid’).

Here's a snap:

Victoria River Roadhouse, NT