Alice Springs NT Overland telegraph Kookaburra Heavitree Gap

Fairly big day today (well yesterday actually) but easy driving for 370 something kilometres. First stop was Ti Tree Roadhouse for fuel, a cuppa and some raisin toast. At first glance this looks much like any other (mostly daggy looking roadhouse up this way, but out past the tills and tack and shop part, is a really nice little cafe eating area, not a plastic table cloth in site! Well done them.

Then it’s on down to Alice which we reached in good time and despite having to fiddle about with the van and jockey wheel again due to the car being much lower on the road than the van on the grass, we got settled in OK and strolled up-town for a late lunch and a coffee. 

Sad to say, but Judy beat me comprehensively at indoor lawn bowls, must be my lack of bias…

Two days for the cost of a single click!

Slept in today before giving the couple of shops in town the benefit of our patronage. Judy found a Millers so all was right with the world. Actually, on the way out we went to a place that we've been seeing advertisements on the TV for since mid-queensland (about 2000km away as the crow flies). It's a camping shop called Desert Dwellers (see i can spell 'desert' when put to the test) and their slogan is; 'If we haven't got it, you don't need it' and they are probably right!

We also sought out the local caravan repair man called JC's. We were looking for a new TV Aerial winding handle. He not only had one, but heaps of other stuff as well. He's just a one man operation in a large shed. To fill the days in, in between repairs and selling bits, he builds caravans from scratch and they looked the part I must say. 

Anyhow, back to tourist matters: we went into the Adelaide House, which is the first hospital built in central Australia, by one J Flynn for the Australian Inland Mission. Built to his own design, it was constructed of really thick rock walls, had a cellar and an attic and a ventilation system that automatically drew cold air up from the cellar and out through the roof. It was remarkably cool inside. They had displays of hospital and nursing stuff inside, and outside they had a display of the ubiquitous pedal radios, pride of place was Traegers very first one. Fantastic.

Once on the history trail, I'm hard to shift, so up to the Overland Telegraph site for another look-see, much the same as 2 years ago as it turns out. This year for some reason, Judy was a bit nostalgic about when she came here to a wedding in 1972. We had a look at the now dry waterhole where they went swimming and she quizzed the shop staff about what the remains were of the OT station when they finally got around to preserving it. Suffice it to say that back in 1972, it was just a pile of overgrown rubble of no interest to anyone. Only the handful of people who lived locally knew of its existence, and then only because from time to time there was water in the swimming hole.

I had a mission however, and that was to find the remains of the Kookaburra. I'll lift the story straight from Wikipedia: 

Daredevil pilot Charles Kingsford-Smith flew his plane named the Southern Cross on an attempt to set a speed record for flying from Australia to England in 1929. "Smithy" and his crew of two set off on March 30. Bad weather and bad navigation caused them to miss their planned stop at Wyndham and they set down near the Glenlg River. But this story is not about the Southern Cross. A search was launched to find Smithy and his crew. One of those looking for them was Keith Anderson, piloting the plane called the Kookaburra. It left Alice Springs had to land in the Tanami Desert due to malfunctions. The plane never took off again. The crew of the Southern Cross was found by another search plane. Meanwhile, back at the Kookaburra, Anderson and co-pilot Bobby Hitchcock died of dehydration before they were found  two weeks later. The plane was abandoned in the desert for 49 years until it was recovered by Dick Smith. The Kookaburra's remains were taken to Alice Springs where they have been on displayat the Central Australian Aviation Museum since 1982

Now you might find this hard to believe, but two years ago I asked around, looking for the Kookaburra and drew a blank. Here it is in glorious isolation in its own air-conditioned building, right next to what should be a major tourist attraction, the Connellan Airways Aviation museum, set on the original airstrip in Alice. It's also right next door, and forms part of, the Araluen Aboriginal Cultural Centre. Mind you, the poor old craft isn't much to look at, having spent 49 years in the desert. It's a minor miracle that the engine has survived almost intact, looks as f you could kick it over and it would start right away!

Okay then, less chat and more snaps:

The waterhole. Alice Springs NT

Main House, Overland Telegrapgh Station. Alice Springs NT

Alf Traeger's first pedal radio. Adelaide House. Alice Springs NT

Nurse's uniform Adelaide House. Alice Springs NT

Adelaide House. Alice Springs NT

remains of Kookaburra.  Alice Springs NT

Engine from the Kookaburra.  Alice Springs NT

Low Flying. Aviation museum.  Alice Springs NT

Heavitree Gap, taken at speed.  Alice Springs NT

Wycliffe Well NT UFO Spaceships aliens outerspace Devils Marbles Karlu Karlu WWII

Straight run down the Stuart Highway again this morning, first to Tennant Creek where we fuelled up and bought a few groceries, then a stop at The Devils Marbles (now Karlu Karlu) before pulling up at the roadhouse / Big4 caravan park that is Wycliffe Well. Well, indeed. First the story about Wycliffe Well/s, there used to be four of them and the place came into prominence during WWII when someone noticed the few hardy should who lived there could actually grow vegetables in this otherwise lifeless red soil, if you had enough water and figured that the Army could use some food for the 1000's of servicemen being sent north, so they took over the place for the duration of the war. Some time later, some enterprising soul decided a van park would be the go and created what is, even today, a little oasis, billed as Australia's UFO Capital, on the edge of the Tanami Dessert. But, the park is well past its prime. All around you can see the remnants of what could only be described as an unfulfilled great vision.

First there are the UFO themed murals, and figures and signs and ‘stuff’ all around the place. Then, as you walk around the park, you come across a small gauge railway track, which you follow back to the engine shed where a decent looking sort of engine and train sit, obviously neglected and idle for a long time.

Then out the back is a 300 seat convention centre and restaurant, called the Galaxy Restaurant. Closed, but i wandered in through an unlocked door and had a poke around. I found a paper dated June 2010, so it may have been some time ago since the last guest drank the health of the entertaining star or the guest speaker.

The railway line also goes back out of the park proper toward where a sign declares Lake Wycliffe to be. A lake? If there was a lake here, the place would be populated. We investigate what turns out to be a man-made lake of 60 million litres. The lake is in two halves, one half is dry, leaving the miles of black plastic sheeting high and dry. The other half has some water in it but is blue-green algae heaven. There is a rotting rowboat, artificial reef made from car tyres, two bridges and a monument. On top of the monument there is a large sculpture of a barramundi, which gives some hint that maybe they were trying aquaculture for harvesting or fishing. Who knows. There is a hundred miles of black plastic irrigation pipe to support the zillion trees they claim to have planted, but everything except the hardiest are dead. Such a shame. One can only imagine that they were trying to create a resort in the dessert where people would come to see the Devils Marbles (10 km up the road) and stay a week relaxing and enjoying themselves. I just wish they’d also spend few dollars on solar heating for the pool, that would have been out of sight.

We dined in the 'restaurant' behind the shop/reception on quite a decent meal of bangers and mash for I, chicken schnitzel for Judy and a bottle of 5 Seeds Apple Cider each. We only did it because they and a special for tonight and one night only, a 2 for 1 deal on, so it was quite affordable. And pretty delish as well. 

Speaking of special deals, when we booked in Judy flashes her Big4 card and claims the member discount. The man behind the bar waved it away and, pointing at the faded-to-nothing sign declaring a special this-week-only of $25 per night. Sounds a bit of con to us, it's only a $25 park, even with aliens for company, so it's just a way out of giving anyone a discount. I have to point out that they are competing head-on with the $3 per person a night so-called free camp just up the road at the Devils Marbles.

And, no UFOS. What a rip-off!

And as for the well? Well, it was buried under the current version of the Stuart Highway many years ago... it's that sort of place.

My favourite rock in Australia. Its at least 3m across and just looks like a big salami has been cut right in half.
Devils Marbles, er Karlu Karlu, NT

Yar, green men, they went that-a-way. Wycliffe Well NT

Always knew they were from another planet....  Wycliffe Well NT

Uh, yair, i like the ones in the soft khaki packages, not this big crunchy ones.  Wycliffe Well NT

Ooooooohhhhhhhhh.  Wycliffe Well NT

Is that ET? Or Leeloo?  Wycliffe Well NT

Mooohooo. Beam me up!  Wycliffe Well NT

No, you can't come to the bar with me...  Wycliffe Well NT

Banka Banka NT grey Nomad wine, Making tracks campfire happy hour

Up not quite so early today, but still managed a couple of swims through at the Bitter Springs, just me and a handful of likeminded souls enjoying the peace and tranquility of nature at its best.

Then we had to bite the bullet and get moving down the Stuart Highway to Banka Banka, a distance of some 480km, but pretty straight forward. I discovered today why my fuel consumption had jumped up past 20L / 100km, the thing appears to be reluctant to change up past 5th gear, making it rev at 2300 rpm instead of 1700 and in the process pushes the instantaneous consumption up from 15 to 20 (at 100kph). Yes, one could slow down as well, but to be perfectly honest, I think you'd die of boredom, its a very long soulless drive with little or nothing to break the scenery or the journey. Anyhow, by kicking the thing into 'sport' mode (Ford's imaginative term for manual override) and pulling the stick back, it goes into 6th and is deliriously happy to stay there for hours. Bump it back into auto and within minutes it has decided that 5th is somehow better. Something for my friendly Ford dealer I'm yet to meet in Adelaide to worry about.

I've mentioned Banka Banka before as we've stayed here 3 times already, so apart from the nice green grass, the shady trees, the lovely spring water, the friendly atmosphere, the 100 year old homestead and buildings to wander about and the 2km walk to the drop dead gorgeous billabong, there's not a hell of a lot more to say.

Being the unsociable loner that i will be if not dragged into the public arena, we took our chairs and camera and a bottle of Grey Nomad Sauvignon Blanc up to the fire pit and joined the growing throng to listen to a lady also travelling with her husband, who told a few jokes, calling themselves Makin' Tracks sing a few classics to the accompaniment of a karaoke machine. At first I thought she was just warming up and just loosening up, by Judy was convinced that she should go on Australia's Next Best Voice or something. Not quite sure about this, I cogitated the matter over a few more wines from a second bottle of GNSB, and she was right, the singer wasn't half bad, nor was Judy's contribution in the impromptu backing band, nor our rock and roll dancing. No, I lie, my dancing at least was fabulous, Judy had two and a half left feet. despite my trepidations, we both thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. (jb comment - Brian could hardly remember the basic steps but I did improvise the line dancing)

We ate late and went to bed, sleeping like babies until 830 or so the next morning.  

Mataranka NT Bitter Springs Hot water springs

Just a short note today to say that we took our time in moving from Katherine to Mataranka. As is becoming the norm, finding a site at the Territory Manor was not so much problematic but just a shambles. It's to do with their park set-out, which can only be described as weird. Its based around a series of toilet blocks, four bathrooms per block. It used to be 2+2 male / female but now its just 4 unisex bathrooms. The trouble is that there are 8 sites radiating out from each block, giving you the inevitable pie-wedge shaped sites. They are not all the same size, some are huge some tiny, most have a tree or something in just the wrong place, but hey, it adds to the character of the van park.

We watched the barramundi being fed by the kids, under supervision of course, had some lunch and then hit the springs. They are wonderful as usual.

That's all folks, big day tomorrow as we head seriously south, aiming for Banka Banka Station and cooler nights. YAY(jb)

Katherine NT Museum, Katherine Gorge, dinner cruise, railway, market

The first thing i noticed this morning when i woke up was that it was perfectly quiet, except for the birdsong. I hadn't realised just how much the background drone of the Stuart Highway pervaded into even the back blocks of the caravan park in Darwin, or how often the big jets come roaring overhead. Anyhow, I just found it so much more relaxing. The only other noise you can here in the dead of night is the occasional freight train rumble past in the distance.

Speaking of trains, the Ghan was in town today so just for fun we drove out to the station to have a look - it certainly is one long train. As we drove into the yards, we came cross a group of people walking out toward the main road, which i thought was pretty odd. When we drove out of the station, they had split up into 3 couples, one of whom had two small children with them. One of the couples had towels and I immediately assumed, correctly, that they were off the train and that they were walking to the hot springs. I may be an old woman but its 3pm, its 33 degrees and getting warmer and here are these people wandering along a dusty hot road toward a destination that they really didn't know how to get to and absolutely no idea how far away it was. We went back to the pair with the kids. They had only just made it out to the main road and were slightly built Asians. Someone on the train or at the station had told them it was 15 minute walk to town. It is at least 6km to town and its hot, they have no hats and a single bottle of water. We told them that this was very dangerous, especially for the children as they could easily dehydrate and suffer heatstroke. We were unable to pick them up as we didn't have the room as we had already told the couple heading to the springs that we would give them  a lift. We hope they turned back and called a cab. The next pair further on toward town said they were ok and would take a chance so we left them with it. The last pair, with the towels, were waiting for us and gave a lift up to the springs and pointed out that it was 3.5km from where we picked them up and that they ought to not spend a lot of time at the springs if they were to get back in time for the trains departure. Our good deeds done for the day!

Anyhow, our day really started with us heading toward the supermarket, but we got sidetracked by the market in the little park in town, which proved to be 1/2 dozen stalls selling 'food', and about 3 stalls selling other stuff. We then took a little detour for me to have a look at the old railway station built in 1926 and now used by the National Trust. Two rooms are run as a book exchange and the other room has some photos and memorabilia of the good old train days, long since passed into history.

Having got into the mood, we then went out to the Museum proper for another look, as it was supposed to have been changed a bit. The only change I could see was a brand new shed / hanger to house the Gypsy Moth aeroplane used by Dr Clyde Fenton. Its claim to fame is that this is the plane he was using when he started work with the Flying Doctors. He had been private flying doctor for years and this was about his 4th plane, and like all the others, he managed to crash it on more than one occasion. The interesting part is that he sold it way back when for 400 pounds, the museum found it advertised for sale purely by chance and were happy to pay $100,000 for it!

This evening we went up to Nitmiluk National Park (aka Katherine Gorge) and boarded the boat for our sunset dinner cruise. We did this cruise two years ago, and it lived up to our expectations, although this time there were a lot more people and you didn't get that eerie effect of being in the dead quiet and total darkness in the gorge on the way back. But a nice cruise, good company and good food. Long walk back in the dark to the car though. Back to the van safely, looking out for wallabies on the way, to watch the F1 qualies.

A little maid from Springvale Homestead. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Gypsy Moth VH-UNI Katherine NT

Bats! Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Ah! This is the life. Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Dinner is served. Katherine Gorge. Nitmiluk. Katherine NT

Katherine NT Hot Springs Pool Low level crossing Katherine River

So the day finally arrived: after 3 weeks we had to leave Darwin and head south to Katherine.

We stopped at Pine Creek for a coffee and because the town needs all the help it can get. In the last few weeks the mine has announced that it will be closing and that means the loss of over 600 jobs in a  town of 1000. It's a shame, over the last few years we have seen the changes as the mine money flowed into town and it looked like it was just getting back on feet, and now this. Anyhow, they had our donation for what its worth, and a fine cup of coffee it was as well.

The park at Katherine is quieter that we expected and we have a good spot, large and plenty of shade. We made a bee line for the hot springs which were busy but still pretty good. When we came back to the van park, we decided that the best thing to do was go for a swim! The pool is just slightly chilly but really enjoyable. Not much else happening here and we plan on an early night.

One odd thing though, down the road from us is Springvale Homestead, the oldest homestead in the Territory. It had a small van park behind and the old homestead buildings were open for inspection. But this year its closed, no idea why, but it seems a shame.

Royal Darwin Show, Darwin NT, Orchids cymbidiums

So, it's our last day in Darwin. Where have the weeks flown to? Anyhow, having done everything to do and some things twice, we went to the Royal Darwin Show, which starts today and stays open for Friday and Saturday, which seems odd.

We were expecting a huge affair with lots of both city and countryfied exhibits like they have in Sydney. Well we were  disappointed as they have very little of that type of thing and that which they do have is on tomorrow. What they do have is an overflow of those tacky tacky sideshow stalls selling a plethora of useless goods in lurid colours to the unsuspecting public.

Even the rides seemed a bit light on, they had a 'Claw' but no ferris wheel, no slingshot, no hit-the-bell-and-win-a-prize. I saw some clowns, and some of those floating duck pond things. Pretty boring, maybe it all happens at night?

We found some food, though, and decided on a hamburger from this innocent looking stand. Judging by the state of panic that ensued when we ordered something, my guess is that the two kids behind the counter had not actually done it in anger before! The burger was really good though which was a pleasant surprise.

Then we found the horticultural shed and spend a bunch of time looking at orchids and oncydiums and a bunch of others not known to me. Some are so tiny and so cute, others are just beautiful. Mind you, it was stifling inside the shed, but when we went onto covered grassed area the humidity just went through the roof.

Down the back of the 'ring' we found the cat-house, which I graciously allowed Judy to go and explore while I sat in the shade and watched the Ag School student being put through their 'Show Display' techniques using size large cows as props.

We slid out the side door and headed back to camp. We put a few things away but gave that up in favour of a swim, a snooze, another swim, a cold drink, another swim etc. But, all things come to an end and we finished putting our toys away, just waiting for a decent hour to go and eat at the bar and then retiring for the night. Up and away tomorrow, heading down to Katherine, where its still in the 30s but much cooler at night. Sad, but true.

A couple of snaps to prove we was there:

Darwin Show 2014

Hurry Hurry! Get yours now while (this truckload of) stocks last! Darwin Show 2014

Who's being judged, the cows or the cow handlers? Darwin Show 2014

Darwin Show 2014

Darwin Show 2014

Darwin Show 2014

Darwin Show 2014

Darwin Show 2014

Darwin Show 2014

Oooh look, there's more... Darwin Show 2014

Darwin Show 2014

Darwin NT Cornucopia Restaurant, Museum Art Gallery

Judy just had to get her hair cut today, so i spent the time walking along the beach. with our chores out of the way, we finally went back to the cafe at the Art Gallery and Museum. Some say, that you should never go back. This was our third time back in Darwin and we decided we would anyway. Its a nice spot, the food was good. Compared to say the Trailer Boat Club, it is a bit pricey so perhaps we will keep it for a special lunch next year.

They are slowly but surely loosing their view however, so just to remind you, here is a snap or 2

Headed back to Palmerston to get a few necessities from the shops before heading out to "Jenny's Orchid Nursery". We parked the car and was immediately accosted by we assume "Jenny" to let us know that we could look in the shop for free or pay $7 each to look in the shade houses. Seeing there were more orchids in the shop than the shade houses we opted to ogle those in the shop and keep our hands in our pockets. After oohing and aching over the amazing orchids we quickly jumped back in the vehicle and headed home to the van park for a refreshing dip in the pool before champagne and nibbles.

View from Cornucopia Cafe, Darwin NT

View from Cornucopia Cafe, Darwin NT

Dessert at Cornucopia Cafe, Darwin NT

Darwin NT Trailer Boat Club, Museum and Art Gallery

Wandered about today. Starting to panic, so many things we aught to do so little time to do them. Went back to the Museum  and Art gallery and spent an hour or two looking at the artefacts and criticising things we know nothing about.

Our theme, as has been the last few years, is based around the existence of the aboriginal art. Now in this gallery, most of the stuff they have is old, well old for today, having been collected in the 70s and 80s. The point is, the 'art' as we see today, didn't exist prior to the 1970s, so why is it held in near religious reverence? At least the pieces in the museum purport to document some of the stories as opposed to the current pieces being produced. The long and short of it is that its just art when its produced in the form of a canvas or a convenient sheet of flattened bark. They have no history of art in this format. They only painted their possessions such as spears, shields and ceremonial items. The interesting items are the burial sticks, which according to custom are erected over the burial mound and are highly spiritual and sacred, you can't even take pictures of them. So how come we have a whole bunch in a museum?

Anyhow, I don't know that's for sure.

What i do know about is that at lunch time i felt like a feed and having ascertained that the Cornucopia Cafe is full as usual, we enacted the Club Crawl clause and headed off to the Darwin Trailer Boat Club, all of about 500m away. The setting is superb, the food excellent, plenty of table, no waiting. Why do we bother with that museum?

This club, just like its Water Ski counterpart, is set right on the beach. Absolute water frontage. It has large grassed areas and shaded tables. They also provide a playground and a decent looking pool for anyone to use. Could explain why its jam packed at the weekends, those cunning locals just keep quiet about it.

A few snaps, the first lot from the museum where they have a collection of the oddest vessels that you will see anywhere. They are mostly of asian extraction, with the exception of the last Darwin based pearl lugger which was built in Broome. In the 1980s when Paspaley had finished with it, he donated it to the museum, but elected to change its name from White Star, to that of his wife. Now isn't that odd. an old piece of history with a brand new name, sort of doesn't sit right.

Asian boat. Darwin Museum

Asian boat. Darwin Museum

Asian boat. Darwin Museum

Looks like Noah's Ark. Darwin Museum

 boat carrying nine Vietnam war refugees into Darwin Harbour. 1970s  Darwin Museum

Trailer Boat Club, Darwin NT

Trailer Boat Club, Darwin NT

Me looking ratty. Trailer Boat Club, Darwin NT