Judy & Brian Tour Oz: Wycliffe Well NT UFO Spaceships aliens outerspace Devils Marbles Karlu Karlu WWII

Straight run down the Stuart Highway again this morning, first to Tennant Creek where we fuelled up and bought a few groceries, then a stop at The Devils Marbles (now Karlu Karlu) before pulling up at the roadhouse / Big4 caravan park that is Wycliffe Well. Well, indeed. First the story about Wycliffe Well/s, there used to be four of them and the place came into prominence during WWII when someone noticed the few hardy should who lived there could actually grow vegetables in this otherwise lifeless red soil, if you had enough water and figured that the Army could use some food for the 1000's of servicemen being sent north, so they took over the place for the duration of the war. Some time later, some enterprising soul decided a van park would be the go and created what is, even today, a little oasis, billed as Australia's UFO Capital, on the edge of the Tanami Dessert. But, the park is well past its prime. All around you can see the remnants of what could only be described as an unfulfilled great vision.

First there are the UFO themed murals, and figures and signs and ‘stuff’ all around the place. Then, as you walk around the park, you come across a small gauge railway track, which you follow back to the engine shed where a decent looking sort of engine and train sit, obviously neglected and idle for a long time.

Then out the back is a 300 seat convention centre and restaurant, called the Galaxy Restaurant. Closed, but i wandered in through an unlocked door and had a poke around. I found a paper dated June 2010, so it may have been some time ago since the last guest drank the health of the entertaining star or the guest speaker.

The railway line also goes back out of the park proper toward where a sign declares Lake Wycliffe to be. A lake? If there was a lake here, the place would be populated. We investigate what turns out to be a man-made lake of 60 million litres. The lake is in two halves, one half is dry, leaving the miles of black plastic sheeting high and dry. The other half has some water in it but is blue-green algae heaven. There is a rotting rowboat, artificial reef made from car tyres, two bridges and a monument. On top of the monument there is a large sculpture of a barramundi, which gives some hint that maybe they were trying aquaculture for harvesting or fishing. Who knows. There is a hundred miles of black plastic irrigation pipe to support the zillion trees they claim to have planted, but everything except the hardiest are dead. Such a shame. One can only imagine that they were trying to create a resort in the dessert where people would come to see the Devils Marbles (10 km up the road) and stay a week relaxing and enjoying themselves. I just wish they’d also spend few dollars on solar heating for the pool, that would have been out of sight.

We dined in the 'restaurant' behind the shop/reception on quite a decent meal of bangers and mash for I, chicken schnitzel for Judy and a bottle of 5 Seeds Apple Cider each. We only did it because they and a special for tonight and one night only, a 2 for 1 deal on, so it was quite affordable. And pretty delish as well.

Speaking of special deals, when we booked in Judy flashes her Big4 card and claims the member discount. The man behind the bar waved it away and, pointing at the faded-to-nothing sign declaring a special this-week-only of $25 per night. Sounds a bit of con to us, it's only a $25 park, even with aliens for company, so it's just a way out of giving anyone a discount. I have to point out that they are competing head-on with the $3 per person a night so-called free camp just up the road at the Devils Marbles.

And, no UFOS. What a rip-off!

And as for the well? Well, it was buried under the current version of the Stuart Highway many years ago... it's that sort of place.

My favourite rock in Australia. Its at least 3m across and just looks like a big salami has been cut right in half.
Devils Marbles, er Karlu Karlu, NT