Arnhemland 2016 - Maningrida NT

Day 5 - Travel from Murwangi to Maningrida

An early start and another big day on the road. First stop for morning tea was at the aboriginal township, or Out Station as they are called, of Ramingining. We were made very welcome at the Bula Bula Arts centre, and it would have to be the best one we’ve been in. 

Arts centre. Ramingining NT

Arts centre. Ramingining NT

Arts centre. Ramingining NT

Ramingining NT

There was just something different about the feel of the place: happy artists and striking artwork. About six or seven artists lined up and we were introduced one by one and they made us very welcome. Inside the gallery and workshop they have artwork that just looks better than other work that we have seen. We sat on the floor and talked with a very old man about an intriguing piece he was doing that he said depicted the passing of an ancestor and the family gathering to send the spirit on its way. 

Danny and his unfinished artwork. Ramingining NT

Needless to say, Judy had to buy at least one artwork, and as the artist was present, we went to say hello. When we told him we were buying his painting, he took it, and after a discussion in his own language with his granddaughter, he proceeded to add a series of white dots to it, to 'pinish im up proper' (he didn't really say that but I think it was what he meant)

Judy and Ray. Ramingining NT

Ray, just tarting up the already finished artwork, just for us. Ramingining NT

There was a young fellow there who was bouncing around in a funny reed hat and was only too happy to tell us all about the design of the (yet another) new bag Judy bought. It was  printed in the dreaming colours of his mother’s people and where he came from. He also went on to tell us about his dreaming colours which he took from his fathers side and how he wore these colours when he led them in the dance cycles. They also had some photos from the making of 10 Canoes and he was as animated as Frank and Ricco had been as he told us all about his fathers part in the movie.

There was another fellow there who's name was Billy. Judy introduced us: Billy Black meets Brian Black. We're from same skin group so we are brothers.

Billy Black and I are 'same skin', we're brothers. Ramingining Arts centre NT

I think we had left Murwangi at 7am and finally arrived at the Barramundi Lodge, about 20km from Maningrida, at 1 PM. This is a much different place from Murwangi, it's an older place which is well known for fishing tours, but as Outback Spirit bought it recently the accommodation has been tarted  up and new boats and vehicles put into service. It’s a better design in that the dining room is al fresco, the bities held at bay by two large fans and insect repellent.

Another walk around in the afternoon, guided by an aboriginal fellow from Hinchinbrook Island who told us the usual tales about each of the plants and trees that we came across. One though, was very different, it is a tiny plant related to the Venus fly trap. It survives in areas where water pools on the ground. When the water dries up, the tiny spikes on the base trap any unsuspecting insect that might walk over it or land on it and then consumes them for the moisture content.

Some dodgy tiny plant that insects get stuck on, then eaten for their moisture content. Barramundi Fishing Lodge,  Maningrida NT

Mud wasp, right at home on the BBQ in the dining room. Barramundi Fishing Lodge,  Maningrida NT

Dinner was the best yet with fish and crabs and prawns galore. As dinner came to a close, these two ‘girls’,  Susan and Meriel (no, not Muriel or even Mariel), got up with a few of the others and started a song line of their own. Something like this, sung to the tune of Frere Jacques:

Barramundi, Barramundi

Crocodile, crocodile

Termites in cathedral, termites in cathedral

Barking Owl, Barking Owl

And of course there were appropriate hand actions and naturally we had to have ‘rounds’ with them leading the three tables. I think at least one of them was or is a school teacher, as were several others. 

I insisted on my version of the last line, 'Barking mad, Barking mad'

A bit of spontaneous fun and certainly an ice breaker, or that may have been the $40 bottles of sparkling wine...

Early nights are beginning to be the norm as we have another early-ish start tomorrow to go fishing and visit the ubiquitous arts centre at Maningrida proper. 

Day 6 - Maningrida, Barramundi Lodge

Up early and fed, we all bundled back into the truck and were driven the 20km or so down into Maningrida. Half of us were going fishing on two boats, the other hand doing the art centre / museum / womens' craft centre tour. We lucked into the morning fishing trip and were loaded onto our boat along with Robbo, our guide, whilst it was still on the trailer. They then backed the whole thing down a pretty dodgy boat ramp and launched us out onto the Liverpool River without us getting our feet wet - or eaten by crocs. These are purpose built boats that reputedly cost $80,000 each, basically a huge aluminium ‘rib’ style boat with 2x 250hp outboards, the whole thing set up to carry six fisho’s and to get to the fishing ground as quickly and comfortably as possible. Using his considerable knowledge, Robbo headed for some rocky bottom stretches where we trolled, two lines at a time, for barramundi. And Barramundi we got. We all got fish, although one was only a little cod, but we took four 65cm or longer fish back for dinner. 

Judy with a baby barra. Liverpool River, Maningrida NT

Brian with fish, bigger'n hers! Liverpool River, Maningrida NT

The other boat only caught the one big barra. I’m sure it wasn't just luck, Robbo was damn good at what he does. He’s a full time fishing guide who divides his time between Barramundi Lodge and Darwin doing fishing charters.

Robbo, the fish whisperer of Maningrida

After lunch, a wrap with something and salad, a drink and a piece of fruit, taken under a tree near the boat ramp, we set of for our tour of the towns attractions. The art centre was neat and tidy but nothing that stood out art-wise. We even had a guided tour of the fairly small building, being shown the packing room, the despatch room, the photo studio for the internet and oh, we’re back in the display hall. They, and we, have to do these set pieces, it’s all in the tour companies contracts and on the whole it’s not that onerous.

Maningrida Arts Centre, Maningrida NT

Random art work.

Maningrida Arts Centre, Maningrida NT 

Main showroom.

Maningrida Arts Centre, Maningrida NT 

Maningrida Arts Centre, Maningrida NT

 The Women’s craft centre is where they do a bit of fabric printing and personally I thought it pretty ordinary. They have these garments and knick-knacks at idiotic prices: Judy tried on a colourful top - $150, the sort of thing she picks up at Millers and whines about it of it cost more than twenty.

The museum was smallish, had some interesting displays of old photos and aboriginal artefacts, and was opened especially for us. We were given the tour and then it was locked up tight again.

Museum. Maningrida NT

World's mangiest dog. Maningrida NT

Judy heading for the shade. Maningrida NT

Back at the lodge, we lazed around our tent for a while before dinner, looking forward to the chef's speciality - 'Barra Bites'. Various guides had been winding us up about this all day and saying how we had to catch the fish or we'd miss out on a real treat.

When dinner came out, it was barramundi sure enough, with two deep fried prawn on the side. This we all assumed was the barre-bites, but we were wrong, this smallish size chunk of barra was it - dinner. Talk about disappointing, especially after last night's feast.

In to bed early again as we have another long day on the road tomorrow.