Tewantin Qld August 16 2015

Tewantin Qld August 16 2015

Tewantin is now basically a suburb of Noosa, but grew up as a nice little town up the Noosa river from Noosa itself. Noosaville was also a little town between Tewantin and Noosa, but has also been swallowed up in the urban sprawl. It has however, an exceptional waterfront given over to public use: parks, boardwalks, BBQs and the like. It runs for 2km or so and is a very pleasant walk in the late afternoon as the sun sets over the river.

Sunset. Noosaville Qld

Sunset. Noosaville Qld 

Sunset. Noosaville Qld

One thing they have here is a surfeit of 'markets'. We went to the Eumundi Markets yesterday, which is obligatory if you're here, well Judy went to the markets, I had booked myself in for a massage, and even though it was a full-on Thai, walk-up-an-down-your-back massage, it was still less painful that 'doing' the markets. Over the road from the markets there are a whole pile of cafes, bars, galleries, shops of every ilk. One of the gallery belongs to Tina Cooper, and internationally acclaimed glass-blower. Her pieces are just stunning, at least as good, if not better than those we saw in Murano in Italy. We had a very interesting chat about glass artists and the creation of the glass works in Canberra, who tout themselves as the peak body, representing all glass artists in Australia. Apparently they have never heard of her (one of only two artists to have represented Australia overseas) even though she has been a leader in her industry for thirty years. Talk about a snobbish, single minded attitude. There was an underlying tone of rancour, frustration and outrage in her voice and rightly so.

We followed the Noosa Bird Fancier's trail and took these two snaps. Striking, aren't they?

Pelican. Noosaville Qld

Pelican. Noosaville Qld

Today we went to the Farmers' market down the road a bit, at the local AFL ground. Turns out that Sunday morning is also when they play footy, needless to say, the main parking is inside the grounds and the traffic is banked up for miles (1.6kms) to turn into the grounds. So much so that we took a fairly long circuit around the lakes via Noosa and parked on the side of the road well before the markets. Lots of good look looking produce, mostly dirt cheap. We bought some veg and then Judy crumbled and bought an almond croissant and a baguette from the French Patisserie-in-a-caravan.

I am a sucker for vehicular ferries and knowing that there is one just up the road where you can cross the Noosa River and go to the North Shore and then drive up the beach to Fraser Island, was too tempting. I went down there and took some snaps. I had forgotten that there were actually two of them, one of which gets put into service at peak hour. I can't help but think about the 'good-old-days' when there were two similar ferries taking all the traffic across the Hawkesbury River at Brooklyn up until 1945, which is when the original 3 lane bridge was built. I'm sure I've at least seen these ferries running, probably when they upgraded the bridge to 4 lanes in the 70s

Vehicle Ferry. Tewantin Qld

 Now, I ask you, what is better than one vehicular ferry? Why, two course!

Vehicle Ferry. Tewantin Qld

Queenscliff Vic Bairnsdale, Vehicle ferry, fog

Awake before the alarm. 6:15am. Stumbled out to the bathroom. Had to stand still and take a second look. All I could see was fog. It's OK, I found the ensuite, it was only 2 metres away.

We were booked on the ferry from Queenscliff to Sorrento at 8am, which for us means being there at 730. Luckily it was only 5 minutes away from the van park. Take a look at our trip to the ferry:

OK, yes this is Queenscliff. Where is that boat?

Down here maybe?

Oh, ok there it is, down there

Well, at least we found the right place. That is the ferry and he's at least 50 metres off course. Better do a hard right, then left...

Oh yeah, it's in here isn't it.

Out they come, lucky to be back on safe (couldn't say dry, could i?) ground

This is the view out toward the busiest shipping lane in Australia, through which we have to pass to get to Sorrento

We traversed the pond in the murky gloom, blasting our horn all the way. We saw nothing at all. After about 40 minutes the two deckies took up a position each at the front of the boat, walkie talkies in hand. Inching our way carefully forward until the shape of the wharf came into view. Safely docked, we were the first off and we hit the road to ward the east and traveled for two hours through the back blocks of the Gippsland area stopping at Sale for lunch and a rest. Soon after leaving Sale we  emerged  onto the M1, Princes Highway to you, and headed to our destination, Bairnsdale.

While unhitching the van, we noticed that one of the gas bottles was flopping about instead of being securely fastened to the chassis. Must fix that. Repairs effected, we went up to town to get some fuel and to stick our heads into St Mary's Catholic Church, which the lady at the park reckoned was pretty special. We've seen lots of churches around the place and this one looks very typical of the early 20th century churches, being built from red brick, but this one is quite extraordinary inside, being completely covered in murals depicting all the saints and perceptions of heaven and hell, a la Sistine Chapel. It was painted by a 'world famous' Italian artist   Francesco Floreani between 1931 and 1938. Floreani came to Australia from Udine, which is located in north eastern Italy. He had studied painting at Udine College and then later at the Academy of Arts in Turin. Ok enough history.

We took a little excursion down the Mitchell River to Paynesville (gotta love that name) and had a look at some of the boats tied up all around the place, but not before Judy almost trod on a nesting Swan!

Broody sawn. Paynesville, Vic

Boats. Paynesville Vic

Kingscote SA Kangaroo Island Ferry Cape Jervis Sealink Aurora Hotel The Pier Apartment 10

We left Victor harbour in plenty of time to drive the 60 odd kilometres across to Cape Jervis where we would catch the vehicular ferry across to Kangaroo Island. The ferry approached the small marina at what appeared to be alarming speed, only to execute a graceful 180 degree turn and sidle up to the wharf in what was a masterful display of boat handling. We were eventually shuffled on board. I was a bit surprised to be asked to reverse in! Having done my backing up I was guided into an end parking spot with at least 6 inches on the passenger side. They really know how to stack the 50 odd vehicles on.

I joined Judy upstairs in the saloon where we had a comfortable sofa like seat just behind the big main front window. One had to smile, in front of us were a row of single bucket seats that swivelled, either on their own with each succeeding swell as it rolled under the craft, or propelled by the 6 yo from France who sat and span the entire 45 minute trip to Penneshaw. Good job we don't get sea sick; the rocking motion and the continual spinning tops in front of us would be enough to send you screaming for the head (that's nautical talk for loo).

Driving off was of course much more straightforward as we were all facing the loading ramp. Instead of roaring off like everyone else for the big smoke, Kingscote, we stopped in Penneshaw and found the only open cafe for some lunch. It is about 100km from Penneshaw to Kingscote, quite a good road with lovely green fields and bushland and despite the intermittent rain, quite enjoyable.

We found our place at The Pier Apartment #10 but ran into trouble trying to get in. First, we expected a reception desk of sorts but found none. Judy fronted the reception in the Aurora Ozone Hotel next door, and despite the fact that they don't manage this particular apartment, they made phone calls and sorted it out. What the Sealink people had neglected to do was give us the instructions including the entry code for the key-box at the front door. What they had no way of knowing was that the door on the box was jammed solid and no manner of coaxing was ever going to get it open. Thankfully, we did have phone number now and a gent who we assumes owns the place turned up in short time and gave us the spare key. Nothing quite like being mucked-about getting into your accommodation to put you right off a place.

No harm done though and after Judy had a nap and I a walk around the pier, we adjourned to the Hotel to repay their kindness by taking our dinner there at their excellent restaurant.

Lighthouse. Cape Jervis SA

Sealion 2000 ferry car deck. Cape Jervis SA

Pier 10 Apartment Kingscote SA

Aurora Ozone Hotel, Kingscote SA

Sealion 2000, Cape Jervis SA

Melbourne Cont. 'At Leisure'

Monday : Today was mother-of-the-bride dress buying day. Judy had sussed out the most likely place whch turned out to be a little shop in Waverley Road East Malvern. Fortunately they had one that was just right for the occasion and so that was one down and only the shoes and handbag to match to go.

Chadstone is just down the road from Malvern and boasts the 'largest shopping mall in the southern hemisphere'.  Naturally we went straight there and went in through the 'Paris' end but sadly(?) nothing there for us. Not to mch further down the scale we found a Ferrari shop (Diana not Enzo) and he shoes and handbag were secured quick-smart.

While we were in the area, I wanted to have a quick look for my uncle's old house, in Ramona Avenue, Malvern . Found it easily with Tom's help and it looks just the same as it did last time I saw it, about 45 years ago. The trees have grown huge and the freeway seems a lot closer than it did then, but unmistakeably the same place - would have taken a snap except there was someone sitting in a car in the driveway.

Tuesday : We decided that we really had to catch the vehicular ferry from Sorrento to Queenscliff, which are the two towns on the opposite sides of the mouth to Port Phillip Bay. Wow, it's two hours or so down to Sorrento, but a really pretty place. We decided to have lunch up in the town itself and catch the 3 o'clock ferry. Judy had the fish and chips, brought to the table neatly wrapped in a bag made of newspaper held together with a clothes peg! (see snaps) The ride across is pleasant, but you could see how the waves and swell could blow up anytime. Came straight back through Geelong in about an hour and a half, roads starting to get real busy as Melbourne empties out for the day.

The cafe, Just Fine Food, also boasted 'famous vanilla slices', which is a challenge. Judy declared after dinner that the slice in question really wasn't that good (i noticed it all got eaten though) and certainly not up to her benchmark, which is still the one found at the Beechworth Bakery, even the outlet in Echuca, if your going that way.

Snap d'jour:

Ulmarra, Bluff Point, Brooms Head, NSW

Took the History Walking Tour around Yamba, but used the car instead. Most interesting item was this milepost. Some of us remember them being every mile along the road... Then we had little green shields ever 5k and now you get one big green sign at the start of the section and you're left to dead reckoning and GPS to know where you are 

 

Milepost. 1 mile to Yamba, 11 miles to Maclean

 Visited some of the places that the Pacific Highway has let us forget. Ulmarra is billed as "A visit to Ulmarra is like stepping back in time as the village remains one of the finest examples of a 19th Century riverport in Australia." You be the judge. It all looked a bit false to me, like a cardboard fascia had been plastered up to make it look like the town they suggest. For all the talk, there's nothing much there really and a quick walk up and down and a sqizz at the river was all it took.

Main Street. Ulmarra, NSW

Bluff Point? OK so you're forgiven for not knowing instantly where this is. It's a point on "the mainland" as the locals put it, on the opposite bank of the Clarence to Maclean. Our interest lay in the fact that it still has a working punt, which we just had to have a ride on. One of the reasons it survives is that the trucks loaded high with sugar can use it to get to the mill. We were first on and the little man called us right up to the gate to leave room for others. Judy complied and we turned our engine off and waited for others. Two more cars to our left and then a very large truck nosed up behind us. We thought we were off but something was wrong, we didn't budge. In the mirrors we could see the truck being backed up and assumed he was being backed off for some reason. But no! With a roar of its engine it charged back on, we braced ourselves to be pushed into the river when it slammed its brakes on and the whole ferry tipped forward. Judy was almost freaked out! Suddenly we were moving, gliding across the river as if nothing was more normal than using a huge truck to give the ferry a kick start....

Bluff Point Vehicular Ferry. Maclean, NSW

Brooms Head is a tiny town right on the coast, 20km east of Maclean. The caravan park, right on the beach, is possibly larger than the town and looked quite attractive, but maybe a bit remote and basic for most. But the view....

Brooms Head, NSW

Maclean, NSW

For whatever reasons, we zoomed over to Maclean, about 20k upriver. It's a nice biggish town as well. One the hub of commercial transport on the Clarence, it's only claim today is to call upon its Scottish heritage, as many other towns do. They have a cairn they built, after they lost the bid for the real one that came out from Scotland in 1988 for the Bi-centenary and went to Mosman in Sydney. Their home-made cairn is made from real Scottish rocks however, so they are pretty pleased with it. They also have a bunch of Clan Chief poles showing the Chief's name and the Clan's tartan. All the telegraph poles (yes, all) in the town have a tartan painted around the bottom and all the street signs have the Scottish translation under them, mind you a lot of them seem to translate to No through road! What the need is some standing stones or at least a circle of standing cabers in the form of telegraph poles. I must tell them. Maybe they should rip over to Glen Innes and take their standing stones, they aren't doing much with them at the moment.

There is a park on the corner of the highway called Ferry Park, where apart from the i shop they have an old vehicular ferry and an old river barge. I love these ferries, as if you didn't know. This one is quite small, probably only two or maybe 4 T-model Fords and probably not the one that the Pacific Highway traffic went across the Clarence on until 1962.Ah, vehicular ferries, punts, as we called them. What a graceful and stress free way to travel the highway. Now of course its a 4 lane super bridge and Maclean is a name on a signpost flashing past your window. The river barge at least had a sign giving some of its history, it being the last of the barges, timber hulled and wooden sided, it carried 70 tons. The state of both exhibits was pretty bad however and its only a matter of time before they just disintegrate. 

Pictures for your amusement -> Maclean

Snap of the day

Vehicular Ferry. Maclean, NSW